Canoeing in the Biesbosch

Tuesday, 14th of July: Wet motorbike ride to Bruinisse.
First-Mate is travelling for work all week and I had planned to go sailing. The weather had other plans and it hasn't stopped raining since Sunday. By Tuesday afternoon there were some dry spells and I couldn't wait any longer. I got on my motorbike and rode to Bruinisse. Of course I was caught by showers on the way.

Wednesday, 15th of July: Single-handed to the Galatheese harbour.
On the grey morning of Wednesday I cast-off towards the Grevelingen harbour and once trough unfurl the Big Genny and let the West wind push us along the two miles to the next lock, the Krammer lock. In the lock I had a sort chat with a couple from Newport RI who shipped there beautiful Vancouver 27 to Sardinia and have been cruising in Europe.
Once out, I decided to sail under main only as there were multiple changes of course and the sail handling is easier this way. Anyway the wind was picking up and we were doing good progress. And then it started to rain again. When passing in front of the Galatheese harbour, I remembered reading that this former work harbour where all sorts of craft were left rusting had recently been cleaned-up and converted into yacht harbour. So I doused the sail and motored in. It has indeed been cleaned-up and there is a restaurant... but nothing more. Moreover the waves created by the intense shipping on the Volkerak make their way into the harbour. On the positive side until when and if they build harbour amenities yachts can overnight free of charge. Now, that is my kind of price.

Thursday, 16th of July: Single-handed to Willemstad.
The next morning was bright and sunny. After waiting for the restaurant to open to have a coffee and use the toilet, I set-off for the next leg of my journey, towards Willemstad.
There was very little wind and from the wrong direction: NE. The next four hours were spent happily tacking up the Volkerak with full genoa and mainsail. I crossed paths with several Marieholm IFs going to their summer event at Oude-Tonge.
Nearly arriving at the next lock, I noticed that Yoyo-Ma was being attacked by the infamous weed of the Volkerak: a propeller-munching weed with long, tough vines. So I hove to and unwrapped the propeller. A few more tacks and I was in front of the lock struggling to douse the main while being shaken by the wake of the many powerboats coming out. After the lock it was only a short bit on motor to reach Willemstad. This time I went for the more modern of the two harbours, De Batterij.

Friday, 17th of July: Chilling out in Willemstad.
As forecast, Friday was sunny and started very warm, but soon strong westerlies brought some fresh air from the North Sea. I spent the day messin' about, varnishing the tiller, cleaning-up.

Small maintenance jobs in Willemstad.

In the late afternoon First-Mate joined for the next, more interesting part of the trip. We went into town to a restaurant that serves a very nice raw haring and then had dinner aboard.

Saturday, 18th of July: Willemstad to Spieringsluis.
A sunny day and the westerly wind has moderated. It serves us well, because we are heading East up the Hollands Diep towards the Biesbosch. We will be negotiating lots of shipping lanes, so First-Mate brought our faithful Suzy-Q who is a bit bulky but better than Yoyo-Ma at motoring long distances (long, meaning more than 4 miles).
Suzy Q immediately showed-off her skills by taking us across the shipping lane. After that we could unfurl the Big Genny and just run with the wind.
After a while the space between the shore and the shipping lane got narrower and narrower. We were also approaching the meeting of two rivers busy with shipping and had to pass under three bridges. Time to motor again.
Passing under the bridges was nerve-wracking: we had less than one meter clearance. I am really pleased for Mekicevica's short mast. Not many sailboats could come this way.
Than it was up the Nieuwe Merwede where we could also cover some distance under sail, on a beam to broad reach.

Sailing up the Nieuwe Merwede.

Finally we arrived to the little lock that is the access to the Bieasbosh from this side.

The Biesbosch.
As we sit in the cockpit basking in the late afternoon sunshine, after a run and a beer, we marvel at this place. Peaceful, nearly unspoilt nature. The variety of birds is breathtaking; there are even ospreys! They claim to have otters and beavers, although we didn't spot any. And yet we are on the edge of the Randstad. Dordrecht is 2 km away, just across the river with a good ferry connection. Even the industrial belt of Rotterdam is barely 20 km away! The Dutch know a thing or two about landscape management!

Sunday 19th and Monday 20th of July: Canoeing in the rain.
That is all very nice, but could that have better weather? For the next two days we were exploring this national park on canoe, and mostly in the rain.

Willie bravely took us around the Biesbosch for two days.

The first day it rained heavily and we had to bail the canoe all the time. The sun came out about 10 minutes before the end of our trip. On the second day it rained now and then, and as we were returning it got seriously wet. We must be getting a bit soft in the brain with old age because we actually enjoyed it. We even started making plans for a two-day canoe trip, wild-camping overnight.

Tuesday, 21st of July: Some thrilling sailing back to Willemstad.
The sunshine is back, and so is the SW wind. We decided to return via the main channel of the Biesbosch, on motor, than along the Amer, under the bridges into the Hollands Diep and when it got wider, First-Mate insisted we sail. The Skipper was a bit reluctant but gave in, and we did have some great sailing. Closed-hauled with reefed main and a tiny bit of jib out. In some gusts we were getting the toe-rail in the water, but always under control. In just a few tacks we were in front of Willemstad and motored across the shipping lane and into the harbour.
After checking the weather forecast, we decided to leave Mekicevica in De Batterij and return home with intention of sailing her to Bruinisse in the weekend.

Wednesday, 22nd of July: Doing my laundry at the other home (the one that doesn't float).
After a week living aboard a 19-foot boat I needed to catch up on the laundry. In between washing and hanging clothes I checked the weather forecast for the weekend and got a shock: there will be a nasty storm passing on Saturday, with very strong wind gusts (60+ knots!) and still lousy weather on Sunday. A readjustment of the plans is in order.

Thursday, 23rd of July: Single-handed to Steenbergen.
On Thursday morning, I put my bicycle in the car, take it to Bruinisse (together with helmet, clip-on shoes, cycling shorts and all that paraphernalia), and drive to Willemstad where Mekicevica is patiently waiting. I change the head sail back to Big Genny, and we're off. Motor to the Volkerak lock, where we could just go in without waiting, and then sails up. I started with full main and one roll on the genoa, and then I got the most temperamental wind I ever experienced. The direction varied between NE and SE, and the strength between nothing and ahelluvablow! After the first gust that got water well past the toe-rail and everything crashing inside I put a couple more rolls on the genoa. The next gust again nearly knocked-us down, so I shortened the headsail even more. In between gusts we were bobbing with slack sails and not moving. In this rodeo-style sailing we got to the shipping lane, which was absurdly busy. We tacked to-and-fro making little progress with the tiny headsail. Finally there was a lull in the shipping, and since the weird gusts seemed to have stopped I unrolled the full genoa and sailed across the shipping lane.
Then came a few hours of pleasant sailing: the wind was still a bit finicky, but now between nothing and slight puffs. The sun was shinning, and we had space to leisurely tack down the Volkerak keeping out of the way of the big ships. I decided to head for Steenbergen. It involves motoring a bit along the channel leading to the town, but since Suzy-Q was taking care o the motoring it was good opportunity to get to Steenbergen. It also influenced my decision that near the harbour there is a supermarket open until 8pm and I had no wine to go with the dinner.

Friday, 24th of July: Back to Bruinisse.
After a very resting night, I prepared for the last leg of this trip, back to Bruinisse. The forecast was weak, variable wind, becoming weak to moderate easterly. The latter would be good for us, but as we motored out of Steenbergen it seemed more of the former. We also came across a very friendly elderly couple from Harlingen on a catamaran I have met previously in Bruinisse.
Again motor across the shipping lane and try to sail. The wind was really very light. It would have worked, if it wasn't for the wakes of the many yachts motoring on one side and the big ships on the other. At some stage I was sitting with Mekicevica bobbing in the waves, the sails doing some crazy dance that didn't help us move, it was raining, and there was a cloud of mosquitoes buzzing around my head. OK, I give-up! Motor on and on to the Krammer lock. I still managed to get a bit of sailing on the Krammer before negotiating the impossibly busy Grevelingen lock (2h to get through!).
The trip finished with a bike ride back to Willemstad. Guess what! The wind I didn't have while trying to sail eventually picked-up to a stiff breeze when I was cycling. From the NE moreover, right on my nose!

Birthday Celebration on the Grevelingen

Friday, 10th of July: Single-handed to Ouddorp
My 52nd anniversary and a brilliant, sunny day with a week to moderate SW wind. I'll offer myself a single-handed trip up the Grevelingen.
The first treat was the motorbike ride to Bruinisse. Than prepare Mekićevica and by noon we were motoring out of Bruinisse harbour. I immediately hoisted the main and unfurled the full Big Genny and off we go. Then it was a common process in sailing in weak wind:

1. start in the desired course which happens to be beam reach;
2. trim the sails and gain speed;
3. as you do so the apparent wind turns more to your nose;
4. you trim the sails accordingly and gain more speed;
5. this makes the apparent wind get more to the nose until you either bear away from your course or lose speed until the shift in apparent wind fills the sails again;
6. repeat.

But with warm air, plenty of sunshine, and calm waters what is there to complain?
As usual in front of Bommenede the wind really got variable. Unusually, there were no motorboats in sight and all the sailors were just making the best they could of the little wind without resorting to the iron sail. So there was no annoying propeller wash to make the situation frustrating.
Once past Bommenede the wind became a bit more constant in direction. But by then I needed a break and the conditions were ideal to practice heaving to. Here are my notes on what I found:

1. Start with centre-plate lowered and the genoa furled until the clew is at the spreaders;
2. tack to back the genoa, ease the main sheet, and turn the tiller completely to leeward; this will try to turn the  boat onto the previous tack but the backed genoa will not allow it, especially because by now nearly all way has been lost and the rudder is doing close to nothing;
3. as the backed genoa makes the boat bear away further, adjust the mainsheet tension until the boat starts pointing into the wind again; it won't go very far, because the genoa will push the nose away from the wind again;
4. the boat gets into a swaying movement as in turn the genoa makes her fall off and the main sail starts pointing her up again;
5. be aware that the boat is still slowly drifting to leeward (or being carried by the stream if there is one).

Soon after my break, a fairly decent easterly wind kicked up and I could sail towards Ouddorp where First-Mate joined with a chilled a bottle of bubbly to celebrate my anniversary.

Saturday, 11th of July: Return to Bruinisse
On Monday First-Mate has to travel to the US for work and there is still packing to do. Moreover the weather is forecast to change on Sunday, so we decided to just return to Bruinisse, eventually with a stop along the way. The weather was brilliant, and the wind was just enough for relaxing sailing under full genoa and main sail.

For a break we picked-up one of the public mooring buoys half-way. To make it a bit more interesting we decided to do it under sail. I must admit it was only at the third attempt that the details of the manoeuvre came back to me. Here it is, in case I forget again:

1. The manoeuvre starts downwind from the target, so pass it on a broad reach, under main sail only;
2. once you have enough distance to manoeuvre, gybe and point up until close-hauled;
3. when the target is abeam, tack;
4. (this is the bit I had forgotten) pointing at the target, ease the main sheet until the sail flogs; if it doesn't, bear away for a bit and then try again to get the sail flogging when aiming at the target; once you find the right angle you can sail towards the target, hardening the sheet to make way or easing it to slow down.

After a while the traffic of many yachts was shaking us too much, so we tried to find a mooring at the Mosselenbank. It has obscenely full. So we just headed to Bruinisse, went for some new haring. Really yummy!

After the process of retrieving the car from Ouddorp it was time for dinner.

As forecast, the rain started during the night, so in the morning we just headed home.

  

Sun-Worshiping on the Krabbenkreek

This part of the world is in the grip of a terrible heat-wave. Very pleasant weather, in my humble opinion. Except when the warm weather brings summer storms with gusty winds, heavy rain, hail, lighting, fire and brimstone.

Friday 3rd of July: Single-handed to Sint-Annaland
On Friday I get on my motorbike, ride to Bruinisse and soon Mekicevica and soon we were motoring towards the Grevelingen lock. It was a longish wait, and then I could observe the  usual spectrum of skippers' behaviour, ranging from I-really-have-to-jump-this-queue-even-if-I-wreck-my-boat to I-really-don't-know-what-I-am-doing-so-I'd-better-go-very-slowly. Luckily I tied up to my favourite type, the one I aspire to be: I-have-seen-it-all-before-and-I-keep-my-cool-in-every-situation.
After the lock I unfurled the Big Genny and let the tide and the gentle, NW breeze push us down the Mastgaat. Plan A was to gybe, turn into the Krabbenkreek and stop at Sint-Annaland. It almost didn't happen because there was so much shipping traffic that it seemed impossible to cross the shipping lane. Eventually, just as I was starting to consider plan B (Stavenisse) there was a lull in the traffic and I could cross into the peaceful Krabbenkreek. All in all it was a pleasant but short trip.
First-Mate joined in the evening for dinner al-fresco.

Saturday 4th of July: Lazy day on the Krabbenkreek
A very warm and sunny day, with moderate W wind. We decided to ride wind and tide up the Krabbenkreek, find a nice spot and just enjoy the nice weather. The sailing was far too fast, even if I kept shortening the genoa trying to slow down. In front of Sint-Phillipsland we found a vacant mooring buoy, tied to it and prepared to spend the rest of the day doing nothing.
We had memories of this place as peaceful. Well, obviously not in nice weather when the local lads keep zooming past in speedboats. That didn't prevent us from enjoying the weather and even going for a short swim in the pleasantly warm water: 23 C!
The W wind kept building-up, so the return to Sint-Annaland at the end of the day was on motor and feeling very much like Hvar, returning home feeling the sun and salt on our skin and motoring against the late afternoon maestrale.
To finish the day perfectly we had a delicious dinner of fish at the clubhouse.

Sunday 5th of July: Motoring back to Bruinisse
On Sunday morning, the Krabbenkreek was like a mirror. Now and then there was a very light breeze but from the NW, completely the wrong direction for us. We wouldn't have minded spending the day trying to sail in light air conditions, The only problem was that the weather forecast was warning of heavy squalls, with strong wind gusts from late morning. So we just motored all the way to Bruinisse.
We still had time to go into town for a light lunch of raw haring before the squalls started.

Another great weekend on Mekicevica. Not a lot of sailing but plenty of nice weather.