Back to the Oosterschelde

This season the winds and tides on the weekends have not been favourable to trips to the Oosterschelde, our favourite area of the Delta. Finally, on the last weekend of August we had our opportunity: a forecast of southerlies and low water in the mid to late morning. Ideal for the return to Bruinisse. But first we need to get Mekicevica as far south as possible.

Friday, 28th of August: The Oosterschelde shows its nasty side (to sailors who make stupid mistakes)
With that mission in mind, I set off on my motorbike towards Bruinisse. The wind was moderate but SW, far from ideal to go down the Zijpe and the Mastgat. After getting Mekicevica ready I set off towards the Grevelingen lock and then start motoring down the Zijpe. Plan A was to turn into the Krabbenkreek and then sail the short bit to Sint-Annaland.

But as I approached the turning point, I thought that would make a really short trip, so why not carry on? Plan B: stop in Stavenisse, as by now the height of tide had made the harbour accessible.
Then I got carried away, and went for plan C: continue to Colijnsplaat. Like this we would make the most of the southerlies and flooding tides on Saturday on Sunday.
A known peculiarity of this corner is that if you have SW headwind in the Mastgat, it becomes W wind when you turn into the Oosterschelde. That I knew. What I completely forgot was that by now the tide had turned and therefore was flowing against a 4 Bf wind. Boy was it choppy! Mekicevica's bow was slamming into the steep waves, while down below everything was being trashed about and in the cockpit I was holding on for dear life and getting showered in salt water. Luckily it was nicely warm.
A bit shaken, I arrived to Colijnsplaat and had time for a warm shower and clean-up Mekicevica to wait for First-Mate to join for dinner.

Saturday, 29th of August: Oosterschelde at its best

We got up to a brilliant sunny morning, with a light southerly wind. Too light if anything. With low water just before 10am, we can have a relaxed start. After breakfast aboard and coffee at the clubhouse, we cast off just before 11am. What a difference from yesterday! Full main and genoa, on a beam to broad reach in the light S wind, with the flooding tide helping Mekicevica glide through water flat as a pond.

First-Mate at the helm, with the Oosterschelde bridge in the distance.

After a bit of manoeuvring under sail to dodge a few ships we turned into the Krabbenkreek and sailed right until the harbour entrance, still in time to have a couple of hours of sun-worshipping in Mekicevica's cockpit.

Sunday, 30th of August: Beating and dodging ships on the Zijpe
During the night it started to rain, as was forecast. The problem was that it was still raining in the morning. We hate sailing in the rain, so when the alarm clock woke-us up it did't take much deliberation to ditch the plan of an early start to catch the last of the ebbing tide out of the Krabbenkreek. Instead, we waited for the wether to clear and had a leisurely start. There was more wind than initially forecast, and from a different direction East to Northeast instead of South. This was perfect to beat the beginning of the flooding tide out of the Krabbenkreek, but once in the Zijpe we had to beat. As usual on Sundays, there were not many ships around, but because they have to go through locks, the few there were came in waves. The wind became weaker and more variable in direction, and to avoid the last wave of ships from both sides at the same time, we barely managed to get out of the shipping lane, reduce sail to hang around while they passed, and then put full sails again to cross the lane again. Just as we were almost at the Grevelingen lock the wind disappeared completely, so we motored the last bit to the lock. In the lock we tied-up to the little stink-pot of a very friendly local couple with a heavy Zeewus accent.
In Bruinsse harbour it was incredibly warm. I didn't have a chance to bask in the sunshine, as I had to get First-Mate's car from Coljinsplaat before riding home.
This was probably the last weekend of unusually warm weather this season, but hopefully we will still have weather nice enough to sail a few weekends more.

A Weekend Cruise to Dintelmond

Friday 21st of August: Sailing the Kramer, motoring the Volkerak  
A weekend of easterlies! That means warm, sunny weather, with wind gradually increasing from close to nothing to a "helluvablow". Mekicevica and crew are going to try to make the most of it.
On Friday morning I get on my motorbike and ride to Bruinisse. After preparing Mekicevica, which included changing headsail to the Big Genny, I cast-off. First on motor to the Grevelingen lock and then sail the short distance to the Krammer lock. The wind was still southerly and very light, but as it was mostly calm we managed to make steady progress.

Leaving Bruinisse behind in light airs.

Until some 100 meters from the lock, when the wind totally vanished. On comes the motor and the timing was perfect because there was no wait and I could get into the lock immediately.
In the meanwhile I came up with a plan for the weekend. The forecast was for weak to moderate easterlies on Saturday, building-up to fresh or even strong breeze on Sunday. With no wind at the moment and a tank full of fuel, I decided to bite the bullet and motor all the way to Dintelmond yacht harbour, where First-Mate would join me for the downwind run back to Bruinisse. The motoring was not fun, but at least there was hardly any shipping and I could take a course straight to the harbour entrance. In the meanwhile the easterlies begun, but it was too late to start beating; I would never get to Dintelmond before First-Mate arrived. Even as it was she arrived just as I was coming out of the shower.

Saturday 22nd of August: Delightful sailing down the Volkerak
A beautiful morning: sunny, warm, with light ESE wind.
It was crowded at the lock to exit the inner harbour, but then we could hoist sails in the outer harbour and come out to the Volkerak under full main and genoa.
It was easy going down the Volkerak on a broad reach, while layers of clothing came out in the rising temperatures.

Sailing in the sunshine, just out of Dintelmond.

Clothes getting lighter...

...and lighter...

We decided to stop overnight at Oude-Tongue and brave the strong winds on Sunday. It was only a short distance, and going downwind. How difficult could that be?
We were enjoying the sailing so much that we decided to sail past Oude-Tongue, almost until the lock and then beat back. By then the wind had picked-up a bit, to about 3 Bf, so to keep the relaxed mood, we put a few rolls in the genoa. This made the beating much easier and certainly not much slower. Just in front of Oude-Tongue we doused the main and gybed to get as close to the Oude-Tongue lock as we dared under shortened head sail only. So much better when you can listen to the many birds that live here, instead of your outboard motor.
Eventually as we entered the winding canal that leads to the town the motor had to come on and power us while struggling with the many weeds that infest these waters. In the process of manoeuvring into our usual berth, I discovered how to get rid of weeds on the propeller: a short burst in reverse and they're gone. Another precious nugget of experience.
In the harbour sheltered from the wind, it was warm as I never thought it could be at these latitudes.

Sunday 23rd of August: Second-reef
Another bright morning. But it really was windy!
After breakfast and coffee, I prepared the second reef on the main sail and we motored out.
As soon as we were set for downwind sailing towards the Kramer lock, we hoisted our tiny sail that was enough to push us like a bullet-train towards the lock. We needed to gybe twice, but with the short sail it was not difficult. In fact manoeuvring in these conditions turned-out to be more challenging than sailing, but even some big yachts with powerful diesel engines were not fairing much better.
In front of the Kramer lock, our outboard motor didn't have power enough to turn the bow into the wind, and a few moments of panic ensued, as it seemed we were going to collide with a boat coming out of the lock. Even stopping the boat in the lock required full throttle in reverse and it took several boat lengths. But like everything about handling boats, once you know how the boat is going to react, you can anticipate and plan the manoeuvre, and from than on, it went much smoother. I am glad we were using Suzy-Q, with her 4 HP and reverse gear. With little Yoyo-Ma with 2.5 HP and no reverse, it would have been impossible.
After the Kramer lock we resumed the sailing under reduced main and with gained confidence it was really enjoyable.

We have rarely used the second reef, but as we always knew when we needed it, we were glad to have it ready.

When the kite-surfers are out in numbers you know it is windy.

Sheltered from the wind in Bruinisse harbour it felt again impossibly warm.
The weekend finished with my motorbike ride back home. Unfortunately the heavy squalls that were forecast came a bit too early and caught me on the way. I arrived home as soaked as if I had fallen overboard!

Cycling and Sailing from Bruinisse

Friday 14th of August: Hopes of good weather
After the nice weather during my Haringvliet cruise, the Summer seems to have gone on holidays somewhere else. The weather forecast leaves hopes of some decent weather on Sunday. Instead of riding the motorbike to Bruinisse early on Friday, we drive together in the evening taking the bicycles with us.

Saturday 15th of August: Cycling in the rain
Grey, cold, windy, wet morning. Not sailing weather, so we fall onto plan B; go for a bike ride.
From Bruinisse we head for the next island to the North, Overflakkee, to visit some villages that are landlocked and therefore unaccessible to Mekicevica, plus some harbour towns that First-Mate did not see yet. Our route took us to Den Bommel, Stad wan 't Haringvliet, Dirksland, Nieuwe Tongue, Melisant, Herkingen and finally back to Bruinisse.

We didn't know how charming Nieuwe-Tongue is.

"Praathuisje" in Stad aan 't Haringvliet.

When we started there was a bit of light rain, but then it became dry. I was starting to think we should have gone sailing when it started to rain seriously. We returned back to Bruinisse thoroughly soaked. Also suffering from pains and aches, as our bodies remind us they are not young anymore.
Spending the evening inside a 19 ft boat while outside is pouring down, was not very appealing, so we went out for dinner at the Vrienden van Bru.

Sunday 16th of August: Shaking the cobwebs off Mekicevica
Yes, the weather improved! Only some high cloud obscured the sun now and then, but still windy, northerly about 4 Bf, later becoming 5 Bf.
We changed the headsail, and out of the harbour we go. Soon we had to put a reef on the main and even reduce the already small jib.

With a few tacks we were in Stampersplaat where there is a mooring very sheltered from the northerlies. We rafted alongside another boat and had a light lunch. The return was on jib only and moving very fast.
After a period of sailing mostly in light winds, it was good to go out in windier conditions. It shakes out the cobwebs of Mekicevica and crew.

A Single-Handed, Summer Cruise on the Haringvliet

The Haringvliet, the arm of the Delta north of the Grevelingen, is a wonderful cruising area. It has a small tide, ranging at most 60 cm, plenty of yacht harbours large and small, and hardly any shipping. On the shores there are interesting, historical towns like Hellevoetsluis, and quaint Dutch villages like Stad Aan 'T Haringvliet. Large areas are natural reserves and are home to a rich variety of birds. In the middle, the island of Tiengemeten is sparsely populated and dedicated to nature and limited, sustainable agriculture. The West extremity of the Haringvliet is protected by a dam, but a lock at Stellendam gives access to the North Sea.
To get there from her berth in Bruinisse, Mekicevica needs to pass the Grevelingen, Kramer, and Volkerak locks. It can be done in one day with good wind (or with a lot of motoring) but that is yacht delivery, not cruising.
In the first week of August, First-Mate had to travel for work and the weather forecast was brilliant. No way I was going to stay at home. Off I go cruising single-handed on the Haringvliet.

The video summary of this trip is now on YouTube.

Friday, 31st of July: Afternoon sail to Oude-Tongue
On Friday morning, I got on my motorbike, rode to Bruinisse and by early afternoon, Mekicevica and I were on our way to the Grevelingen lock. Once we passed the lock and let the rushed flotilla motor past, I put up full main and genoa to cover the short distance to the next lock. The wind was light and mostly northerly, but somewhat variable, forcing me to make a couple of tacks before reaching the Kramer lock. I was considering sailing into the sheltered waters in front of the lock, when it opened, releasing the furious armada that usually comes out. First the gin-palaces at high speed leaving a hell of a wake, than smaller speed boats and the stink-pots, which don't make that much of a wake. Than sailing yachts motoring in a hurry (more big waves), followed by proper sailors looking for space to turn into the wind and hoist sail. Occasionally there is a large traditional Dutch sailing boat, or a small tug-boat in the mix.
The lock was very busy, and not even Mekicevica would fit in, so we had to wait. Once on the Volkerak, the sails up as soon as I felt some wind, but it was still a struggle to escape the calm caused by the breakwaters that shelter the lock.
Several tacks later, I could bear away and into the channel leading to Oude-Tongue. Just before the channel became too narrow, I doused the sails, keeping one eye on the job at hand, one eye on the shallow waters close by. Then I motored to the harbour and take my usual place in this harbour, a box  where only a small boat fits.
Later, First-Mate joined for beer at the new, modern clubhouse and dinner aboard.

Saturday, 1st of August: Sailing up the Volkerak with sunshine and good company
Saturday morning was bright and sunny, with a weak southwesterly wind, just enough to keep Mekicevica moving on a broad reach.

But progress was slow progress, so we decided not to go further than Ooltegensplaat. After a trip to the supermarket, First-Mate took the bus back to Oude-Tonge to fetch her car, while I cleaned the boat, check the possibilities of dinner out (very few and not to our taste), and had a small chat with the couple of one of the two North Beach 24s that are usually berthed side-by-side in Ouddorp. After dinner aboard, First-Mate left to get some sleep at home before the early flight to the US on Sunday morning.

Sunday, 2nd of August: Loooong sail into the Haringvliet in light airs

On Sunday the weather continued sunny and warm, but the wind is even weaker. Optimistically, I  unfurled the genoa immediately as we left the harbour to sail the short distance to the Volkerak lock.

Sailing to the Volkerak lock in very light airs.

At first I was moving slowly but steadily, but soon the wind became more variable, and the traffic of motorboats and sailboats on motor became more intense, so progress was really slow. And when I was halfway, all traffic stopped! I learned the reason for that later, read on.

The SW wind also became a bit more steady, and with flat waters it was no problem to keep moving. I even managed to sail all the way into the breakwaters in front of the lock. I didn't wait long and soon was time to go in. As usual I try to go in the middle and as far forward as possible and I tied to a huge Alberg-Rassy pointing the wrong way!? I thought their engine had broken down while they were in the lock and were stuck there. I was even going to joke if they wanted a tow. It turns out their mast was to tall to pass undervthe bridge and they only realized when they were in. So they had to stay in and wait for the next opening to back-out. That's why there was no traffic out for a while.

Very soon the lock was opening, I didn't even have time to put sun-screen as I intended (but I did put it on soon after, otherwise I would have burned to a crisp). Then came the longest part of the day: getting out of the Hellegat in weak, variable winds with mad traffic in and out of the lock. I lost count of how many times I tacked and jibed, and the red-green buoy still there close to me. Eventually I managed to extricate us from that calm, only to become a sitting duck in what seems to be thoroughfare of speedboats and jet-skis. The worse was an old, fat moron in a big gin palace, going in loops trying to make as much waves as possible for the entertainment of younger, fat morons on jet-skis jumping on his wake. The fact that there were small sail and motor boats and even kayaks around did not bother them at all.

Anyway, the next challenge was passing under the bridge in the shifting wind. To avaoid the pillars, I had to tack twice in the same place while listening to the motorway traffic above my head. Of course in this process another speedboat passed by.

Never mind, it all helps developing my sail-handling skills and my Zen attitude.

Soon after the bridge I seemed to have entered a different world: very few MoBos, and a weak but steady east wind, exactly as KNMI had forecast.

The rest of the way was slow but very pleasant sailing. Broad reach, sometimes goose-winged. And boy it was sunny and warm. I found myself steering from funny positions to be in the shade of the sails. Because of the course I was sailing to use the most of the little wind I was going along the middle of the Haringvliet. When I took out the bonoculars to try to spot Den Bommel I had the pleasant surprise to see the church spire and boat masts dead downwind. The rest was goose-winged to the harbour and I sailed until I was between the red and green markers of the harbour entrance.

Entering Den Bommel yacht harbour. No doubt, this is Holland.

The harbour was one of those where you take a place marked by a green board and the harbourmaster comes by in the evening. I lifted the centre-plate and motored to the last, shallow corner of the harbour where I found a tight space where nothing smaller than Mekicevica would fit and so shallow I got entangled in weeds and had to finish the manoeuvre by pushing with the boat hook. Hah, at least no one else will want this place. I was wrong, read-on.

Despite having drunk 1 1/2 liters of water during the day, by then I was dying of thirst, so I went in search of the local watering hole and found this weird place, very modest, with pictures of Elvis on the walls and a vintage juke-box. I had a beer and returned to the boat to start preparing dinner. As I was doing so, a gentleman came very polite and apologetic telling me that this was the place of his son but he had forgotten to put the red board and he "might" return this evening. My first suspicion was than in all his politeness he was bamboozling me and I was tempted to say than I would move when and if his son came. But I wanted to have some wine and would not want to have to manoeuvre later. Moreover the propeller was fouled with weeds and needed to be cleaned before I could move. So I just pulled Mekicevica few meters to another place and left their place.

Folkboot, Waarschip, and Kolibri. The best of the small wooden boats.

The owner of the place did come back... at 11pm. I had just gone to bed, but since I had left him a narrow entrance to his box, I felt obliged to jump out of bed and offer help.

Technical Note: A simple solution to an annoying problem
I seem to have unlimited patience to spend hours chasing the slightest zephyr to fill Mekicevica's sails. The one thing that unnerves me is the grinding noise the mainsheet block makes grinding against the cockpit sole attachment, when we are rolled by a swell or a ship's wake. Now I found a simple solution to this problem: a piece of rope to attach the mainsheet block. The boom still swings but without the horrible grinding noise.

Monday 3rd of August: Around Tiengemeten and afternoon at the beach

Another sunny morning, and this time with a good southeasterly of about 3 Bf. We left Den Bommel just after 9 am and it was already warm. On a Monday at this "early" hour there were hardly any other boats around. I had full genoa and main and followed the line of green buoys along the coast of Overflakkee, mostly on a broad reach, and moving much faster than the previous day.
The destination for the day was open. One option would be to sail all the way to Hellevoetsluis. Not difficult at all, at the speed we were going. But what would I do in Heelevoetsluis on Tuesday when the weather is forecast to worsen? Another possibility would be to sail westwards until the forecast shift of the wind to the West, then turn back and head for the little harbour of De Put. This is 2 km away from the ferry to Tiengemeten. I can imagine spending a day walking around the island, even if the weather is not so nice.

Just as I was approaching Middelharnis, the wind started to show signs of shifting, so I decided to pull into Midelharnis, wait for the turn of the wind and then sail to De Put. While I was there I restocked on mineral water. When I started again, the wind was straight from the West, and had also freshened considerably. So I sailed downwind with only a tiny bit of genoa. Later the wind calmed and I unrolled a bit more. Apart from that, the only manoeuvres  were two or three gybes, to keep to the planned course.

We were moving fast, and soon I spotted the two yellow buoys that mark the entrance to the harbour. From the pilot book, I had got he impression this was a very small harbour, but as I was approaching there was a huge Bavaria, 38 ft or more going in, and another big yacht behind me obviously preparing to go in. When I entered the harbour I realised we had been here before. It was a very warm day with hardly any wind, and we stopped only a couple of hours to wait for some wind. Th club had some sort of event and there were kids, and a few grown-ups splashing in the water.

As the harbour master was showing me around, I started being really glad I came here. Read on.

After settling Mekicevica, I put on my swimming shorts and went to the water-front. It is a grass alley on the dyke with two lines of trees and with benches and beach chairs with a view over the Haringvliet towards Tiengemeten.

Than I went to "the beach". Well a few stone steps covered in algae, with a handrail to allow you to get into a murky water tasting of mud. Which I did. It was not like swimming in the Adriatic but a welcome surprise in a very, very hot day. On the beach there is a shower, a barbecue place and a few benches, one of which I used to dry in the sunshine.

After that I had a cold beer aboard, because the club house is always open and they have an open fridge with cold drinks in Norwegian style: help yourself and please put the payment in the box.

The water-front at De Put.

.

Place for barbecues.

.

View of Tiengemeten.

.

Even the clubhouse had something south-european about it.

.

This is how dinner is prepared aboard Mekicevica.

Tuesday, 4th of August: Rainy morning, windy afternoon, walking around Tiengemeten

As forecast, it started to rain during the night, and in morning it was overcast and much colder than the previous days. Very windy as well, so the decision to stay put was right. After shower and breakfast I did the 2 km walk to the ferry and went to Tiengemeten. There was a bit of light rain now and then, but it was not too bad. I walked around the island, enjoying the scenery, and making photos and videos. The play of vegetation, water, and sky is really amazing in that place.

The landscape of Tiengemeten.

Gradually the sky to the West became clear and soon the sun was shinning again. But the wind continued to freshen. It suffices to say I saw a Hallberg-Rassy 34 with reefed sails and struggling up the Haringvliet.

In total I walked over 20 km, and in the evening my legs felt it.

Wednesday, 5th of August: The West end of the Haringvliet

Another relatively early start, soon after 9. There was some high cloud and it was not that warm yet. I started with rolled-up trousers and long sleeves, but in the course of the day he shirt came out. The wind had calmed a lot, more than expected, and was weak and southerly. The forecast was that it would back to the SE and freshen-up. This was perfect for me as my route towards Stellendam started due West for the first two miles, before gradually turning to finish with four miles in a Northwest direction.

Pilotage plan.

.

Occasionally things do go as planned.

The wind did back and all the way to the East, and also picked-up strength gradually. The last few miles were on a broad reach with main and genoa full and going really fast. The approach to the harbour was on main only and dead downwind. Dousing the main was a bit of a rodeo in the fresh wind, the water a bit choppy near what was now a lee shore, a bit of current because the Haringvliet barrier was letting water out, and I still had to keep an eye on a ship coming towards the lock to the North Sea. But it all went well, but in all the action I nearly missed the entrance to the marina I started going towards the lock. When I realised the mistake I did a sudden turn, imagining the skipper of the ship behind me cursing me and all my ancestors.

In the harbour, in a very sheltered corner, it was incredibly warm. After settling Mekicevica I went in search of the North Sea beach hoping to swim in the sea, instead of the murky Haringvliet. Not easy! The Stellendam marina maybe easily accessible from the water but from land it is in the middle of nowhere. First I walked a long road through an industry terrain, then across roads and roundabouts, then along the enormous fishing harbour, then over the dike, along a sandy path through the dunes and finally I reached the beach. Unfortunately it is not the sort of beach where you can swim, certainly not at low water as it was. I did walk the long distance of sand only to patter my feet in the salty water. But I could see that this bit of the North Sea just out of the lock in these conditions was quiet as a pond, calmer than inside, in fact. One day Mekicevica will venture out to the open sea.

The North Sea in light East wind: calm as a pond.

Back to the marina, I borrowed a bike to go in search of a supermarket to restock Mekicvica's pantry, and then had a shower. What luxurious showers they have here. It makes Bruinisse marina look drab. Spacious cubicles with shower and a sink. The floor is of a black natural stone, the walls and division between shower and sink are of smoked glass and there are several hooks, a towel rail, a big stainless steel pedal bin, and a huge teak bench.

Before dinner, I had a beer on the terrace of the bar, looking at a Marieholm 26, just in front of me.
One of those will one day be the successor of Mekicevica.

Thursday, 6th of August: Sailing across, short but packed with action

Thursday morning I had a lay-in until 8, because I was not in a hurry to start. There were a few puffy clouds, a weak southeasterly wind, and it was already warm! The wind was forecast to veer to the SW and rapidly increase strength until a 4 or 5 Bf. The course to Hellevoetsluis is approximately due East, so the trick was to wait until the wind had turned, but not wait so long that it would be too windy.

So I went back to the North Sea beach to take some photos, made a bit of order in the boat, and shortly after 11 I started to feel some wind puffs from the SW. Time to go. I planned to go on genoa only, but after I unfurled the whole of the Big Genny, we were still going a bit slow. Since the wind was such that on the planned course I could have both main and genoa full, I put up the main as well. Immediately we gained a bit of speed. Now that is better, I thought. But the wind continued to freshen-up, and continued to  veer until it was straight from the West. Mekicevica was running goose-winged and incredibly fast. It was fun for a while, but it requires a lot of concentration to keep the genoa full and avoid an accidental gybe. Moreover like this we were going to be in Hellevoetsluis too soon and in a runaway train fashion. Since I didn't want Mekicevica crashing into the town hall gates I decided to douse the main before things got a out of control. So I hardened the genoa sheet, and turned a bit closer to wind. Mekicevica put her shoulder into the water with the genoa full, and I continue to turn until the main started flogging. Then it was a question of getting that main sail down as quickly has possible with Mekicevica heeling quite a bit and gradually falling off the wind. It all went well and soon we were going downwind again under genoa only. But it was the most difficult single-handed sail handling I have done so far, and I must admit that when I took the tiller again my hands were shaking a bit. All of this did slow Mekicevica a bit and more important now it was easier to steer. But the wind continued to increase and after a while I had to reduce the headsail. By the time we were in front of Hellevoetsluis, we had only a tiny genoa.

Sailing past the Hellevoetsluis beach. On the left, semi-submerged one of the caissons used for emergency repair of the dykes after the 1953 floods. 

On our previous visit to Hellevoetsluis we always stayed at the big yacht harbour. This time I decided to try the club that is up a small river, after a small lock. The entrance is just after the light-house and I could see boats going in and out. Right in front of the entrance, I started Suzy-Q, rolled the genoa and motored in. Even inside it was windy and there were a lot of waves. Moreover the walls were built for big ships, not for tiny Mekicevica. So the manoeuvring was a bit challenging. Luckily the skipper of a nearby yacht helped me. Finally I settled waiting for the bridge to open and went down below for the almanac to check the opening times of the bridge. To my surprise there were two bridges listed. Checking the map, I realised that there was a third entrance, immediately after the lighthouse, hardly visible in the map. I was waiting for the wrong bridge!

Waiting for the wrong bridge in Hellevoetsluis.

So out again and around to the right entrance. This was much quieter and I got into the lock immediately, as the only boat going in. Here it was very sheltered and behind the lock there were no waves at all. After settling Mekicevica in the very sheltered harbour of the Watersport Vereiniging Haringvliet, I went for a beer in the centre of Hellevoetsluis. It was incredibly warm. I didn't know it could get so warm in the Netherlands.

Hellevoetsluis centre.

Friday, 7th of August: To Middelharnis in light wind

I got up just after seven to a clear, blue sky. But there was no wind. After breakfast I went to the centre to buy some needed boat stuff and to check the weather forecast. A weak to moderate NW wind was supposed to be on its way. So I went back to the boat, got everything ready and took the 10:15 opening of the lock. The Haringvliet looked like a mirror, with only the tiniest cat-paws here and there. But in flat waters Mekicevica does not need much to get underway, so we were doing some slow progress.

Leaving Hellevoetsluis behind, in the lightest zephyr.

Gradually, the NW wind appeared and with a mostly SE course towards Middelharnis, a lot of the trip was goose-winged. My playing with the wind changes in this cruise has been so successful it could have been done on a square-rigged boat.

I am getting so confident at handling the boat single-handed that I started to show-off: I sailed into the canal to Middelharnis and only doused the main sail in front of the lock. With the motor ticking in neutral, just in case. My bravado was punished by a terrible struggle to tie in an oversized box. I finally gave-up and just tied alongside near the showers.

While I was botching-up the tying in the box I had an encounter I had expected since I started sailing with the Portuguese flag: I met a Portuguese sailor. Jorge is of a family from Madeira but was born in Angola. Now lives in Germany and just got his sailboat, named Escape, a month ago. I expect I will be seeing him and his German wife Andrea sailing in the Delta again.

The rest of the afternoon was spent cleaning the boat and shopping for food for the last two days of this cruise in the company of the dearest First-Mate.

Saturday, 8th of August: Back to the Volkerak with bikini crew

On Saturday, we planned to sail towards the Volkerak lock, passing to the North on Tiengemeten. This would avoid a stretch of beating into the North wind before the Haringvliet bridge.
As we got out of the Middelharnis canal we faced a fresh breeze. On a close reach, with a reef in the main and a tiny genoa we soon were on the North side of the Haringvliet. At this point, the wind became gusty and rapidly weekend. Soon we had full main, than full genoa and wishing we had big, light-airs sails. Finally, close to the bridge, the wind abandoned us completely, and we had to motor the last bit to the Volkerak lock.

As we were waiting First-Mate noticed an awning in a nearby gin-palace starting to flutter in the wind: the sea breeze had started. So, once on the Volkerak we were able to sail. At first reaching with full main and a couple of rolls in the genoa, than as we fell-off the wind to cross the shipping lane we unrolled the full genoa to give us more speed. And then there was a bit of drama. The part of the lock for the big ships opened and several came out. At first I thought we could cross in front of them, but they started to gain speed, that forced us to go into a close-hauled course, with too much canvas. By now we had the towering bow of a ship to our lee and First-Mate struggling to roll the full genoa, while bending over the lee side of a crazily heeling boat. We had to rapidly tack away from the shipping lane, bear away until the main covered the genoa so that it could be reduced, immediately jibe go onto a beam reach and cross the shipping lane in the short space between two ships going West, and just behind another going East. On the other side of the shipping lane we could relax and make our way to Dintelmond, even sailing into the breakwaters past a ship that was coming out.

In the harbour we were welcome by the friendly harbour master who immediately recognised us from previous visits.

Sunday, 9th of August: More bikini sailing in light airs and with poled genoa

We woke up to a sunny morning, but there was a clear line of cloud on the eastern sky. There was hardly any wind, and as we motored out of the harbour we were wondering wether we would be able to sail at all. Optimistically we hoist the main and unfurl the whole of the Big Genny and managed to get enough of the northern breeze on the beam to fill our sails.

First-Mate at the helm in light airs on the Volkerak.

Just as our course turned SW, the light wind veered to the NE, giving us a perfect opportunity to try the whisker pole. Even with poled-out genoa, the wakes of ships and mobs still upset the sails, but in the calmer moments the advantage of the pole was evident.

As we were almost in front of the canal leading to Steenbergen, the ferry came out and I had to watch that we were not in collision course. Maybe I my attention to the wind direction slipped for a moment, but I think there was a slight gust of wind from a different direction. Whatever it was, the genoa suddenly got back-winded. Result: the ring on the mast where the whisker pole gets attached got bent.

After that the wind dropped to nothing, so we motored the rest of the way. As we were waiting for the Grevelingen lock at around 4 pm the sea breeze started, just like the day before.
Approaching Mekicevica's berth we had a crosswind, so I decided to try fast manoeuvring. Not very successful, I still prefer my usual approach of taking your time.

We only had to settle Mekicevica, First-Mate drove home and I got on my motorbike, which behaved very well after being left for 10 days.

Technical note: Whisker pole attachement
When I got the whisker pole I needed a ring on the mast to attach it. For our size of mast I could only find one with the ring vertically. I noticed other boats have the ring horizontal, but I could not see how that would make a difference. After the backed genoa incident I see how it does: with a vertical ring, if the pole gets pushed against the mast it acts as a long lever and the force is enough to bend the ring or even rip it from the mast. I have now found a suitable attachment with horizontal ring bur the holes to fix it are not in the same position, and I am reluctant to drill more holes on the mast.