Wednesday 29 June 2016

Paradise Regained. Prologue.

It has been two years since we have been to Hvar. On the other hand I was promised that this year I could have a sailing holiday. The solution is obvious: sail around Hvar, not going on big voyages as four years ago, but just use Hvar as a base and go around the many islands and bays in the area.
There are difficulties with this plan, 1750 of them to be precise, which is the number of kilometres between Bruinisse and Split. I decided to bite the bullet: I'll hire the trailer, drive Mekicevica to Split, put her in the water and prepare her to sail. First-Mate will join then fly to Split. This way we will maximise the use of her holidays.
So started the preparations, and some problems as well. In the day I was preparing the car to go and get the trailer it turns-out that the tow-bar was missing. Misplaced or even stolen when the car was serviced. Rush to Ford and try t persuade them to order a new tow-bar urgently.
Then my passport was about to expire and had to have it renewed. The Portuguese consulate takes so long to do that that I had to get the trailer, put mekicevica on it, and than in the last minute return to Brussels to pick-up my passport... in a day when the Belgian railway went on strike. First Mate had to rescue me in Mechelen.
Eventually, on a bright Saturday morning, I left Bruinisse with Mekićevica in tow for the long drive. Even driving slow and with frequent breaks we made good progress and on the afternoon of the second day we entered Croatia, the day after Portugal eliminated Croatia from the football Euro Cup. Near Karlovačko I had the last long rest and last change of motorway. From than there are displays above the road at regular intervals showing the temperature. Starting with 26C near Karlovačko  the readings progressively increased: 27C, 28C, 29C,... by the time we reached Zadar it read 32C, despite being late afternoon. Finally in a warm and quiet Sunday evening we entered Split and were soon in front of a building on which a neon sign read "ACI Marina Split". Arrived!
After finding a place for the car, boat, and trailer to stay overnight, I still managed to shower and have a dinner of octopus salad.

I woke-up on Monday morning and started the preparations to put Mekićevica in the water. They don't have a crane to step the mast but soon what I call the southern efficiency kicked-in: no sophisticated equipment or standard procedures; just four guys with cigarettes in the corner of their mouths and cracking jokes and before I knew it the mast was up. There were a few mistakes in the rigging setup, but with the help of the most helpful guy, Joško I managed to solve them. (He turned-out to be a friend of one of the Hvar cousins.) It still took two more long and hot day of preparations, with some difficulties including smashing the rear window of the car while manoeuvring in the marina. Each day finished with a swim at the beach under the Marjan hill, followed by a cold from the marina shop and dinner.
Finally on Tuesday evening all was ready and on Wednesday I even managed to go for a test sail in front of Split. The moment the motor was off, the gentle breeze filled the sails, and Mekićevica started moving graciously through the water all the troubles were forgotten. The sun was shining on the hills behind Split, while to the South the details of the islands of Šolta and Brač became progressively more distinct.
We went nearly to Šolta before jibing and sailing back, well into the wide Split harbour.