Stavenisse

Unintentionally, we seem to have fallen into a cycle of going sailing every second weekend. The problem is we always face the wrong tide for trips down to the Oosterschelde: low water too early in the morning (for lazy sailors like us) and spring tides. However, tours of the Grevelingen or the Volkerak are getting a bit repetitive, so we decide to head south against wind, tide,... and lots of big ships.

It is noticeable that the season is approaching the end, as the Grevelingen lock at peak time was rather quiet. Once on the Keteen, we became aware that the skippers of the cargo ships have also returned from their summer holidays. They just kept coming and going. Beating against the tide and having to time our tacks not to end up in front of one of those huge beasts was hard work. Slow progress as well, because they really churned the water forcing little Mekicevica to cut trough big waves.

It became clear that we would not be able to make it all the way to Wolphartdsdijk as we had hoped (rather unrealistically). So we opt for plan B: Stavenisse. This small harbour is right where the Keteen really becomes the Oosterschelde. It is not a popular destination, mainly because the harbour is only accessible for six hours around high water, for deep-keeled boats, at least. As chance would have it, we were passing in front of Stavenisse three hours before high water, and there was a motor boat going in, showing us where the rather concealed entrance is. So, sails down and we motor in.

The lock was indeed open, and the narrow channel leading to the small harbour had enough water. We tie in at the visitor pontoon in a place that will be just deep enough at low water and go for a bit of sight-seeing.

The peaceful harbour of Stavenisse. 

Stavenisse is a typical "Zeeuwse" XVIIth century town, with a tree-lined main street connecting the harbour to the church.

Stavenisse church.

The town was hit badly by the 1953 flood, and 153 people were killed. If you think that even today less than 1800 souls live here, you get an idea of the extent of the tragedy.

A line on the church tower marks the level reached by the waters during the flood.

Of course, there is also a windmill. 

After our tourist bit, we settled with a couple of beers in the cafe overlooking the harbour. It was now high water, but only two other visiting boats appeared. The crew of the last arrival got themselves in the embarrassing situation of completely botching the maneuver right in front of a large audience sitting at the cafe.
Next day we realized that the clumsy maneuver was not a chance event but part of general inexperience (and irresponsibility in chartering a large boat with such limited knowledge and experience). In the morning, they tried to leave about one hour before low water, when the depth at the harbour entrance would have been 50cm at best. They were saved from getting stuck by the skipper of the other visiting boat who stopped them and explained that they could not get out for another four hours.
From their surprise, it was obvious that their arriving at high water the previous day was pure luck. They did not seem to really believe all this height-of-tide tosh, and left after two and a half hours. A quick glance at the tidal chart I had plotted at home showed that the depth at that time would be about 15dm. Their boat drew 150cm but somehow they got through. Who needs knowledge when you have luck?

Little Mekicevica could have gone out almost at any time, but we were determined to have a relaxed Sunday morning followed by a short run, shower and lunch. We had only 6 NM to do, this time with wind and tide behind us.
The return to Bruinisse was really a sedated affair, mostly on main sail alone and keeping out of the shipping lane most of the time. Even the Grevelingen lock was rather quiet.

It was another great weekend aboard Mekicevica. Hopefully we will have good weather long enough for a few more.  

Back to Brouwershaven

As I prepare Mekicevica for the weekend, it is blowing hard (NW 6Bf) with occasional showers. It is hard to believe the weather forecast for the weekend: mostly sunny and weak to moderate wind. So little wind that I fear it will not be enough to push us against the tide once out of the lock. So we decide to make a tour in the Grevelingen. The alternative of getting up very early to catch the ebbing tide is too horrible to comtenplate.
Our favourite destination in the Grevelingen is Brouwershaven, an old fishing town, from the days when these waters were open to the sea. We have been there before, when the crew was still in the very steep part of the learning curve (see previous blog).
By Saturday morning the wind had indeed weakened a lot and there were large patches of blue sky. Also the wind had backed to the SW earlier than forecast, which was good for us. We started leisurely and enjoyed the lazy sailing up the Grevelingen, taking the long way round to Brouwershaven. This allowed us more time to sail and made the final beating into Brouwershaven easier.  

Mekicevica's lazy route from Bruinisse to Brouwershaven.

This time we asked the harbour master for a place in the old town harbour, and he was happy to oblige. There is already a relaxed, out-of-season feeling around. Still we had to find a gap between the 36+ footer yachts. As small-boat lovers we find it weird that people have fun sailing such huge yachts in such small waters. Each one to their own, I s'pose...

Happy sailor at Brouwershaven old town harbour in the mellow, September late-afternoon sun.

After a little jog and shower we went looking for a place hat would feed us. Our attempts not to end-up in the same restaurant as on the previous visit were frustrated, as the town is also popular with tourists arriving by land-routes and there is not much choice anyway. So, Jacob Cats Steak House will have to be. This time we insisted on having fish.
On Sunday morning the sun was having trouble breaking through the cloud. The wind had veered West, as forecast, which was just great for us. We motored out of the harbour, did the channel in front of Brouershaven mostly goose-winged, and then beam to broad reach down to Bruinisse. It does not get any easier than this.

Beautiful, traditional Dutch boat.

I have to admit that this old lady was slightly faster than Mekicevica.

It took us about two-and-a-half hours to get back, plenty of time to settle Mekicevica in her berth.
We are really looking forward to late-summer trips with Mekicevica.