It has been two years since we have been to Hvar. On the other hand I was promised that this year I could have a sailing holiday. The solution is obvious: sail around Hvar, not going on big voyages as four years ago, but just use Hvar as a base and go around the many islands and bays in the area.
There are difficulties with this plan, 1750 of them to be precise, which is the number of kilometres between Bruinisse and Split. I decided to bite the bullet: I'll hire the trailer, drive Mekicevica to Split, put her in the water and prepare her to sail. First-Mate will join then fly to Split. This way we will maximise the use of her holidays.
So started the preparations, and some problems as well. In the day I was preparing the car to go and get the trailer it turns-out that the tow-bar was missing. Misplaced or even stolen when the car was serviced. Rush to Ford and try t persuade them to order a new tow-bar urgently.
Then my passport was about to expire and had to have it renewed. The Portuguese consulate takes so long to do that that I had to get the trailer, put mekicevica on it, and than in the last minute return to Brussels to pick-up my passport... in a day when the Belgian railway went on strike. First Mate had to rescue me in Mechelen.
Eventually, on a bright Saturday morning, I left Bruinisse with Mekićevica in tow for the long drive. Even driving slow and with frequent breaks we made good progress and on the afternoon of the second day we entered Croatia, the day after Portugal eliminated Croatia from the football Euro Cup. Near Karlovačko I had the last long rest and last change of motorway. From than there are displays above the road at regular intervals showing the temperature. Starting with 26C near Karlovačko the readings progressively increased: 27C, 28C, 29C,... by the time we reached Zadar it read 32C, despite being late afternoon. Finally in a warm and quiet Sunday evening we entered Split and were soon in front of a building on which a neon sign read "ACI Marina Split". Arrived!
After finding a place for the car, boat, and trailer to stay overnight, I still managed to shower and have a dinner of octopus salad.
I woke-up on Monday morning and started the preparations to put Mekićevica in the water. They don't have a crane to step the mast but soon what I call the southern efficiency kicked-in: no sophisticated equipment or standard procedures; just four guys with cigarettes in the corner of their mouths and cracking jokes and before I knew it the mast was up. There were a few mistakes in the rigging setup, but with the help of the most helpful guy, Joško I managed to solve them. (He turned-out to be a friend of one of the Hvar cousins.) It still took two more long and hot day of preparations, with some difficulties including smashing the rear window of the car while manoeuvring in the marina. Each day finished with a swim at the beach under the Marjan hill, followed by a cold from the marina shop and dinner.
Finally on Tuesday evening all was ready and on Wednesday I even managed to go for a test sail in front of Split. The moment the motor was off, the gentle breeze filled the sails, and Mekićevica started moving graciously through the water all the troubles were forgotten. The sun was shining on the hills behind Split, while to the South the details of the islands of Šolta and Brač became progressively more distinct.
We went nearly to Šolta before jibing and sailing back, well into the wide Split harbour.
Wednesday 29 June 2016
Monday 20 June 2016
After the Rain the Sun Always Shines
Another weekend with dubious weather forecast. I could still feel my bones wet from last weekend's rain, but First-Mate instigated us to hope for the best and go sailing.
We drove to Bruinisse together on Friday evening and after a drink at the Sailor's inn had dinner aboard.
Saturday, 18 of June: Fast and wet downwind-sailing
When I first woke-up on Saturday morning it was sunny and the wind was very light. But the western skies clearly showed that things were about to change. And change they did. Fast. It started raining, and since First-Mate had to catch on some sleep, we had a proper weekend lay-in. Anyway, we were only planning to do a short, downwind trip to De Heen.
It was nearly noon when we finally motored to the Grevelingen lock, counting on the weather forecast promise that it would get gradually drier. In the lock we chatted to a group of blokes in a beautiful, old long-keeler with very elegant lines. (I really am fascinated by long-keelers.) Once out, we had a fresh breeze behind-us, so we hoisted almost all of Big Genny and sailed towards the Kramer lock. In the meanwhile the rain was getting more persistent, and the wind stronger.
We went through the lock without waiting, and than unfurled just about a third of Big Genny. Still we were moving really fast. Rolling a lot as well, as the strong wind was building-up big waves. "Big" seen from Mekicevica's cockpit, less than half-metre above the water. We followed along and just to the north of the shipping lane until it was time to cross. We were moving so fast, I was hoping we could sail across. Unfortunately it was too busy; I decided it would be best to motor. It was probably the right thing to do, as we had to slalom around a few ships.
Once it the Steenbergse Vliet, we briefly considered sailing, but the weather was not for hanging around too long, so we motored to the charming Schapenput harbour.
As it was still early we went for a walk to Steenbergen, despite the intermittent rain. Then we went for dinner at the excellent Eetcafe 't Gooileven. Relaxed atmosphere, good food, not expensive, and a very friendly waitress who even speaks Portuguese!
Sunday, 19 of June: The sun is shining, the weather is fine...
A sunny morning, with a light westerly wind. It felt so nice to sit in the sunshine and let the cold and wet be burnt away.
We motored up the Steenbergse Vliet, together with two other sailboats, and then across the shipping lane. As soon as we were out of the way of "the big guys" we switched-off the motor and hoisted main and Big Genny, preparing for a long beat.
The wind was really weak, and variable in direction; we were making very slow progress, also because in such weak winds, Big Genny needs a lot of help to change tack: clear the shrouds, not let the sheets be fouled in stanchions and other obstacles...
In front of Oude-Tongue we had to give up and motor back to Bruinisse.
We drove to Bruinisse together on Friday evening and after a drink at the Sailor's inn had dinner aboard.
Saturday, 18 of June: Fast and wet downwind-sailing
When I first woke-up on Saturday morning it was sunny and the wind was very light. But the western skies clearly showed that things were about to change. And change they did. Fast. It started raining, and since First-Mate had to catch on some sleep, we had a proper weekend lay-in. Anyway, we were only planning to do a short, downwind trip to De Heen.
It was nearly noon when we finally motored to the Grevelingen lock, counting on the weather forecast promise that it would get gradually drier. In the lock we chatted to a group of blokes in a beautiful, old long-keeler with very elegant lines. (I really am fascinated by long-keelers.) Once out, we had a fresh breeze behind-us, so we hoisted almost all of Big Genny and sailed towards the Kramer lock. In the meanwhile the rain was getting more persistent, and the wind stronger.
We went through the lock without waiting, and than unfurled just about a third of Big Genny. Still we were moving really fast. Rolling a lot as well, as the strong wind was building-up big waves. "Big" seen from Mekicevica's cockpit, less than half-metre above the water. We followed along and just to the north of the shipping lane until it was time to cross. We were moving so fast, I was hoping we could sail across. Unfortunately it was too busy; I decided it would be best to motor. It was probably the right thing to do, as we had to slalom around a few ships.
Once it the Steenbergse Vliet, we briefly considered sailing, but the weather was not for hanging around too long, so we motored to the charming Schapenput harbour.
 |
| Schapenput harbour. The skipper dreaming about boats. |
Sunday, 19 of June: The sun is shining, the weather is fine...
A sunny morning, with a light westerly wind. It felt so nice to sit in the sunshine and let the cold and wet be burnt away.
We motored up the Steenbergse Vliet, together with two other sailboats, and then across the shipping lane. As soon as we were out of the way of "the big guys" we switched-off the motor and hoisted main and Big Genny, preparing for a long beat.
The wind was really weak, and variable in direction; we were making very slow progress, also because in such weak winds, Big Genny needs a lot of help to change tack: clear the shrouds, not let the sheets be fouled in stanchions and other obstacles...
In front of Oude-Tongue we had to give up and motor back to Bruinisse.
Monday 13 June 2016
To Zierikzee and Back, Always with the Wind, with the Tide,... and with the Rain
After a few days of summer weather, there are rumours of "some rain" during the weekend. But the tides and the wind forecasts are perfectly aligned for a trip to the Oosterschelde. The occasion is too good to miss; we're going hoping for the best.
Friday, 10 of June: Single handed to St.-Annaland
As soon as I could, I got on my motorbike and rode to Bruinisse. The fine weather of the previous days is holding, but there is very little wind, and about southwesterly. It is forecast to pick-up a bit and turn northerly in the early afternoon. Anyway, low water is around 2pm, so I am trying to time it such that I sail down the Keteen with the last of the ebb, get to the mouth of the Krabbenkreek at low water, and ride the flood tide to St.-Annaland. The rest of the morning was spent preparing Mekicevica and generally pottering about. At around noon, the flag start to flutter and the Windex was showing a nortwesrterly wind. Perfect timing. I dropped everything, and cast-off towards the Grevelingen lock. After the lock I hoisted the main and Big Genny, and let the weak wind, and the weak tide do their best to slowly push us on a southwesterly course down the Keteen. Progress was slow, but the sun was shinning, there were hardly any yachts or ships around, and it was getting nicely warm. It was so quiet I could even let Mekicevica sail herself while I went down to change into shorts and T-shirt.
I was incredibly lucky with the timing: as I was turning into the Krabbenkreek, I could see a boat gradually turning around the anchor, showing the turn of the tide. It was so quiet I could even hear the breathing of a pilot whale, although I could not spot him.
I arrived in St.-Annaland happy and relaxed, prepared for doing close to nothing for the rest of the afternoon until First-Mate joins for dinner.
Saturday, 11 of June: St.-Annaland to Zierikzee
On Saturday morning there was a light easterly, just as forecast. What was not forecast is that "some rain" turned-out to be continuous rain from middle of the night. We still decided to go ahead with our plan, and soon after high water we were riding the ebb and the light easterly breeze down the Krabbenkreek. In this less-than-perfect weather there were not many boats around, and the Oosterchelde was quiet as we rarely see it. After the Zeeland bridge the wind became even weaker and the final approach to the canal leading to Zierikzee was rather slow, but somehow we managed to sail all the way to the entrance before starting the motor to beat the tidal eddies.
In Zierikzee, we stayed at the yacht club, which does not have the charm of the historical centre but is quiet and you tie-up in boxes, rather than 8th boat in a raft, or so.
The rain finally stopped and we went for a stroll and in search of some fresh herring, since the season has just started.
After a dinner of a bucket of mussels washed with copious amounts of white wine we went early to bed, because the next day we need to start early.
Sunday, 12 of June: Wet, wet return to Bruinisse
High water was around 10am, and the wind forecast to be westerly to southwesterly and mostly weak. If we don't want to have to motor all the way back we'd better be past the Krabbenkreek not long after high water. So we planned to cast-off at 7am, but when I got-up just before 6am there was not the slightest puff of wind. So we slept until 6:40, when the flag finally become to flutter a bit. After a hasty departure we were soon drifting more than sailing up the Oosterschelde. It was flat and quiet, with only the slightest of ripples on the water and only the sounds of the birds. If we ignore the occasional noise of a car on the bridge, that is. It would be perfect if it wasn't for the occasional drizzle.
Turning into the Ketene, we went into a straight downwind run, and doused the main to allow Big Genny to pull us along in the slightly freshening wind. We made it past the Krabbenkreek not much after 10am, but then the wind weakened, and turned more westerly, so we hoisted the main again. And then the rain started coming in force. Soon we were completely soaked, moving at snail pace towards the red-green buoy in front of Bruinisse that did not seem to get any closer. We started the motor a bit earlier than we normally do, so we could be back in harbour and change into dry clothes.
In Bruinisse we even had a few glimpses of sunshine, before the rain returned to give me another soaking on the motorbike ride back home.
Friday, 10 of June: Single handed to St.-Annaland
As soon as I could, I got on my motorbike and rode to Bruinisse. The fine weather of the previous days is holding, but there is very little wind, and about southwesterly. It is forecast to pick-up a bit and turn northerly in the early afternoon. Anyway, low water is around 2pm, so I am trying to time it such that I sail down the Keteen with the last of the ebb, get to the mouth of the Krabbenkreek at low water, and ride the flood tide to St.-Annaland. The rest of the morning was spent preparing Mekicevica and generally pottering about. At around noon, the flag start to flutter and the Windex was showing a nortwesrterly wind. Perfect timing. I dropped everything, and cast-off towards the Grevelingen lock. After the lock I hoisted the main and Big Genny, and let the weak wind, and the weak tide do their best to slowly push us on a southwesterly course down the Keteen. Progress was slow, but the sun was shinning, there were hardly any yachts or ships around, and it was getting nicely warm. It was so quiet I could even let Mekicevica sail herself while I went down to change into shorts and T-shirt.
I was incredibly lucky with the timing: as I was turning into the Krabbenkreek, I could see a boat gradually turning around the anchor, showing the turn of the tide. It was so quiet I could even hear the breathing of a pilot whale, although I could not spot him.
I arrived in St.-Annaland happy and relaxed, prepared for doing close to nothing for the rest of the afternoon until First-Mate joins for dinner.
Saturday, 11 of June: St.-Annaland to Zierikzee
On Saturday morning there was a light easterly, just as forecast. What was not forecast is that "some rain" turned-out to be continuous rain from middle of the night. We still decided to go ahead with our plan, and soon after high water we were riding the ebb and the light easterly breeze down the Krabbenkreek. In this less-than-perfect weather there were not many boats around, and the Oosterchelde was quiet as we rarely see it. After the Zeeland bridge the wind became even weaker and the final approach to the canal leading to Zierikzee was rather slow, but somehow we managed to sail all the way to the entrance before starting the motor to beat the tidal eddies.
In Zierikzee, we stayed at the yacht club, which does not have the charm of the historical centre but is quiet and you tie-up in boxes, rather than 8th boat in a raft, or so.
The rain finally stopped and we went for a stroll and in search of some fresh herring, since the season has just started.
 |
| In the Zierikzee Museum-Harbour, still smiling despite the rain. |
Sunday, 12 of June: Wet, wet return to Bruinisse
High water was around 10am, and the wind forecast to be westerly to southwesterly and mostly weak. If we don't want to have to motor all the way back we'd better be past the Krabbenkreek not long after high water. So we planned to cast-off at 7am, but when I got-up just before 6am there was not the slightest puff of wind. So we slept until 6:40, when the flag finally become to flutter a bit. After a hasty departure we were soon drifting more than sailing up the Oosterschelde. It was flat and quiet, with only the slightest of ripples on the water and only the sounds of the birds. If we ignore the occasional noise of a car on the bridge, that is. It would be perfect if it wasn't for the occasional drizzle.
Turning into the Ketene, we went into a straight downwind run, and doused the main to allow Big Genny to pull us along in the slightly freshening wind. We made it past the Krabbenkreek not much after 10am, but then the wind weakened, and turned more westerly, so we hoisted the main again. And then the rain started coming in force. Soon we were completely soaked, moving at snail pace towards the red-green buoy in front of Bruinisse that did not seem to get any closer. We started the motor a bit earlier than we normally do, so we could be back in harbour and change into dry clothes.
In Bruinisse we even had a few glimpses of sunshine, before the rain returned to give me another soaking on the motorbike ride back home.
Sunday 5 June 2016
Single-Handed, Discovering a New Harbour on the Volkerak
Friday, 3 of June: Sailing in Fog and Semi-Darkness
First-Mate was travelling again, so I studied the weather and wind forecast and made a great plan for a cruise. Then the weather forecast changed. There was rain, and heavy showers, and thunderstorms, and all sorts of things. At least it was not cold. Finally as the weekend approached there seemed to be a weather window. I decided to leave on Friday as soon as the rain stopped.
Finally, mid afternoon it was dry enough to ride a motorbike, so off to Bruinisse I go. Quickly prepared Mekicevica and around 5pm I was motoring towards the Grvelingen lock in a cloudy afternoon. After a long wait, we finally went trough and hoisted main and jib to sail towards the Kramer lock, reaching into the moderate northerly wind.
Along the way we crossed the Jouet of the bloke from Den Bosch we had met in the lock a few days earlier. He seemed to recognise Mekicevica as well.
Passing the Kramer lock was really quick and soon we were sailing again, now broad-eeaching on a southeasterly course. With the clouds were descending and the daylight fading, I decided that instead of passing north of the Nordplaat, as we usually do, pass by the south side, following the shipping lane, but just out of it. At least there the red buoys have lights and are in a straight line, making navigation easier if we were caught by darkness. Then it was time to cross the shipping lane towards the Steenbergse vliet. By then the visibility was worse, but not dark enough for the lights of the buoys to come on, or to make our masthead tricolour of much use. It all went well at I felt a great relief when I finally sailed past the green buoy on the other side. Finding the entrance to the Steenbergse vliet was not easy, but with local knowledge and a bit of luck I could spot the red-green buoy that marks the entrance. My plan was to motor to De Heen, but just as I was approaching the little lock, the light turned red. I could not see any boat coming from the other side, neither the bridge over the lock operating, so I thought it might have closed for the night. Never mind, I had a plan B which was to stay at another harbour on the outside of the lock, the WSV De Volkeraak.
It was nearly 10pm when I tied-up, with the friendly help of a girl who just happened to be passing on her way from the showers. The harbour is small, but very neat and all the club members I met were very friendly.
Saturday, 4 of June: Morning Walking, Afternoon Sailing
Saturday morning was still foggy. Not wanting to repeat a crossing of the shipping lane in poor visibility I decided to wait in hope that the fog would clear. To pass the time and do some exercise I went for a walk, looking for an old fort (Fort Hendrick) visible on the map as a star-shape. There and back took me nearly three hours of pretty brisk walking, but from the fort there was not much to see. There is no way to cross the moat, and nothing else remains from the fort.
In fact, while walking around the moat I recognised a spot where we had stopped before during a bike ride, unaware that we were right in front of the old fort.
When I returned to Mekicevica, the cloud had lifted a bit, so I set off for the return to Bruinisse. Instead of a northeasterly moderate as forecast, we had a weak northwesterly. So, we motored across the shipping lane and then started a slow beat along the north side of the Nordplaat. Maybe it was the poor weather, but it was unusually quiet. For long periods, the only sounds were from the many birds that live on the island, unmolested by humans who are not allowed there.
It eventually got sunny, and the feared Volkerak midges descended on us in big, thick clouds. And then the wind completely died. So, I doused the sails and started motoring, but shortly the sea-wind kicked in, and we were able to sail nicely, beating towards the Kramer lock. After passing the lock, I felt too tired to continue the beating, especially since now I would be in narrow waters, so I motored the rest of the way to Bruinisse.
Sunday I will have to leave to meet First-Mate at the airport.
First-Mate was travelling again, so I studied the weather and wind forecast and made a great plan for a cruise. Then the weather forecast changed. There was rain, and heavy showers, and thunderstorms, and all sorts of things. At least it was not cold. Finally as the weekend approached there seemed to be a weather window. I decided to leave on Friday as soon as the rain stopped.
Finally, mid afternoon it was dry enough to ride a motorbike, so off to Bruinisse I go. Quickly prepared Mekicevica and around 5pm I was motoring towards the Grvelingen lock in a cloudy afternoon. After a long wait, we finally went trough and hoisted main and jib to sail towards the Kramer lock, reaching into the moderate northerly wind.
Along the way we crossed the Jouet of the bloke from Den Bosch we had met in the lock a few days earlier. He seemed to recognise Mekicevica as well.
Passing the Kramer lock was really quick and soon we were sailing again, now broad-eeaching on a southeasterly course. With the clouds were descending and the daylight fading, I decided that instead of passing north of the Nordplaat, as we usually do, pass by the south side, following the shipping lane, but just out of it. At least there the red buoys have lights and are in a straight line, making navigation easier if we were caught by darkness. Then it was time to cross the shipping lane towards the Steenbergse vliet. By then the visibility was worse, but not dark enough for the lights of the buoys to come on, or to make our masthead tricolour of much use. It all went well at I felt a great relief when I finally sailed past the green buoy on the other side. Finding the entrance to the Steenbergse vliet was not easy, but with local knowledge and a bit of luck I could spot the red-green buoy that marks the entrance. My plan was to motor to De Heen, but just as I was approaching the little lock, the light turned red. I could not see any boat coming from the other side, neither the bridge over the lock operating, so I thought it might have closed for the night. Never mind, I had a plan B which was to stay at another harbour on the outside of the lock, the WSV De Volkeraak.
It was nearly 10pm when I tied-up, with the friendly help of a girl who just happened to be passing on her way from the showers. The harbour is small, but very neat and all the club members I met were very friendly.
Saturday, 4 of June: Morning Walking, Afternoon Sailing
Saturday morning was still foggy. Not wanting to repeat a crossing of the shipping lane in poor visibility I decided to wait in hope that the fog would clear. To pass the time and do some exercise I went for a walk, looking for an old fort (Fort Hendrick) visible on the map as a star-shape. There and back took me nearly three hours of pretty brisk walking, but from the fort there was not much to see. There is no way to cross the moat, and nothing else remains from the fort.
In fact, while walking around the moat I recognised a spot where we had stopped before during a bike ride, unaware that we were right in front of the old fort.
 |
| Fort Hendrick. more interesting seen from space than from close by. |
It eventually got sunny, and the feared Volkerak midges descended on us in big, thick clouds. And then the wind completely died. So, I doused the sails and started motoring, but shortly the sea-wind kicked in, and we were able to sail nicely, beating towards the Kramer lock. After passing the lock, I felt too tired to continue the beating, especially since now I would be in narrow waters, so I motored the rest of the way to Bruinisse.
Sunday I will have to leave to meet First-Mate at the airport.
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