Trapped in Zierikzee

One of the two-day tours from Bruinisse we have not done this year is a visit to the beautiful town of Zierikzee. This weekend we have a forecast of sunny weather and East wind. The low water on the Oosterschelde will be at the end of the afternoon. Perfect to get to Zierikzee with wind and tide, not so great to return. Especially since the forecast is for rather strong wind (5Bf or even 6Bf on Sunday).
We decide to go anyway. After all, Mekicevica has beaten against 5 Bf wind before, and as the tide will be with the wind we may be slow but the waves should not be too large. How bad can it be? Pretty bad, actually. Read on...
On Saturday we had a late start, as the mornings started to be fresh and make it tempting to stay a bit longer in the sack. Then passing the Grevelingen lock took forever. We just missed one opening and had to wait. Once in, as usual we headed for the gaps in the front where bigger boats can't fit, so we did not get completely what was the commotion at the back. We could only see a tall mast doing a U-turn in the lock with painful noise of polyester breaking against concrete. Ouch!
It was about 1315 when we finally got going. With the tide turning against the wind in three-hours time and more that 10 NM to go, it was starting to feel tight for little Mekicevica. But with a fresh breeze from a bit N of East, and the tide with us we were doing about 4.5 kn over ground.
Passing under the Zeeland bridge was the usual unnerving affair, with strange winds that sent our sails all over the place. But we quickly resumed the good pace and soon we were motoring along the canal leading to Zierikzee harbour, straight into the wind.
The harbour master welcomed us on his RIB and assigned us a place alongside the most unusual boat, with lots of home-made contraptions, the purpose of which was probably obvious to the owner but to no-one else.

Mekicevica in Zierikzee harbour.

A view of Zierikzee.

After a bit of sightseeing we found a very good, simple restaurant where they served delicious, home-made ćevapčići.

Sunday morning was sunny but, as forecast, even windier. So prepare a reef in the main and off we go, doing most of the canal out of the harbour under head-sail.

Approaching the Oosterschelde we could see big yachts pitching like rocking horses. We still got out, put up the main sail and we were in it. The waves were about one meter high, some of them breaking. That does not sound a lot, unless you are in a 19ft boat with a freeboard of about 30 cm. Down below everything that was not well tied was flying about and in the cockpit the crew were getting soaked and holding on for dear life. We had to give up. Rolled-up the jib, gybed (not easy under these conditions) and made our way back to Zierikzee. The harbour master saw us coming back and lead us to a sheltered place to keep Mekicevica until next weekend. Pity that we missed what could have been a day of sailing in the sunshine, but I believe the conditions were beyond the limits of little Mekicevica.

And this way we have the perfect excuse to go sailing again next weekend.

Tribute to the Dumbusters

For weeks we had been considering a visit to Steenbergen. This is a harbour town accessible from the Volkerak by a three mile long canal. When Yachting Monthly published a small article about Steenbergen, we thought "That's it! We're doing a tour to Steenbergen."

Off to Bruinisse on Friday evening, and to put us in weekend mood we went out for a beer. We found a real authentic place frequented by the local fisherman, drinking beer and chatting in "Zeeuwse".

The weather these days is affected by the Azores High, which seems to have come on a city break to the Netherlands. So we are having Azorian weather: lots of cloud but little rain and occasional sunny spells. Only maxima of 18 - 20°C, instead of the 25°C year-round that are standard in Azores. On Saturday morning we had a perfect wind for relaxed cruising: 3 Bf and from the SW, so broad- to beam reach all the way out. The Grevelingen lock was much quieter than in mid-Summer and we sailed the short distance to the Krammer lock. The only drawback of the out-of-season sailing is that some not-too-large ships start to use the locks that in season are meant for yachts. So we had some big monsters with us, both in the Grevelingen and Krammer locks. In the latter we were even blown away by their propeller wash making the manoeuvre in the lock a bit complicated.
All the way we were in the company of Joris, a 19-footer sailed single-handed by an elderly gentleman. Both boat and skipper had that look of more care for function than looks that is a sign of experience.

Once on the Volkerak, we continued the relaxed sailing. The crux of the trip was going to come after the Nordplaat. Here we would need to cross the shipping lane to get to the South side of the Volkerak to enter the Steenbergse Vliet, leading to our destination. We were lucky to have a lull in the intense shipping traffic and could make a fast, straight course, close-hauled in the moderate SW wind.
Than it was a matter of motoring, past the lock and the automatic pedestrian bridge, through fields and farms towards Steenbergen.

Waiting for the pedestrian bridge at the entrance to Steenbergse Vliet.

Approaching Steenbergen.

We found the Steenbergen harbour in party mode. The local sailing club was having a party that included a paddling-the-tender race in the harbour. We pushed our way through all kinds of small boats to come bow first to the pier and look for the harbour master. It reminded me of the approaches to Hvar harbour. After settling down in a berth not too close to the loud music, we went to join the party and watch the tender races.

Sunday morning was grey with occasional light rain. While we waited for the morning grey to clear (it never did) we went for a run and explore Steenbergen's claim to fame. This is where the famous RAF pilot Guy Gibson crashed his Mosquito plane and lost his life. Guy Gibson was the young commander of the operation Chastise that attacked several German dams during WWII. The squadron is to this day known as the Dambusters.

Street named after Gibson. Nearby there are a Mosquitostraat, Warwickstraat (named after the co-pilot), a Dambustersstraat, and a Lancasterstraat (after the planes used by the Dambusters).

The exact spot where the plane crashed is marked by a simple monument in front of an industrial building.

Shortly after noon we started our motoring up the Steenbergse Vliet. The wind had veered to the West, and again we could sail across the Volkerak shipping lane with ease. Than came the beating up the narrow channel. With full genoa, this was such hard work that we hardly noticed the only shy outbreaks of sunshine of the day. But we made good progress and soon we were on wider waters for the last couple of tacks before the Krammer lock. We were lucky that the lock master waited for us, and then again at the Grevelingen lock. They wouldn't have done this in a busy mid-Summer Sunday.

A very pleasant trip to close the Summer in Zeeland.

The Other End of the Grevelingen

We are having great, late-summer weather, with temperatures still reaching 30°C at times. This cannot last forever, so let's use it for another weekend of sailing while we can.
Friday was spent messin' about in the boat and in the afternoon a mighty shower came down, with hail and thunder. I nearly gave up and headed home, but I am glad I didn't because it turned into a fine evening.
Saturday morning started cloudy, but blue patches to the West promised better weather to come. However, with light winds and unfavourable tides on the Oosterschelde, we decided to stay in the Grevelingen. The usual plan: let's head NW and see how far we can get.

With main sail and full Big Jenny the genoa, we sailed away on a beam reach and quickly leaving Bruinisse behind. If it keeps like this, we thought, we'll make it all the way to Scharendijke. This is the harbour on the N end of the Grevelingen, as far from Bruinisse as we can get this side of the lock. Previous attempts to get there were foiled by weak winds and we ended-up in Brouwershaven by the umpteenth time. Not this time! the wind even freshened-up a bit and veered more W, such that we even had to put a few rolls on the genoa to beat up the Geul van Bommenrede.

We meet this boat often, and always find her worth a photo.

By the time we were tied up at Scharendijke the sun was fully out and we went for a walk over the Brouwersdam, the dyke closing the Grevelingen from the North Sea.

View on the Grevelingen from the Brouwersdam.

In fact, it is not completely closed, there is a constant stream to keep the quality of the water. The turbulent waters make this a favourite spot for fish, fisherman, and seals.

Seals hunting their dinners where water comes into the Grevelingen.

Despite the fact that Mekicevica spent the 2012-13 Winter in Scharendijke and with all the keel works I practically lived at the boat yard, we had never been to the town. We were surprised that it has few but very good cafes and restaurants. We selected Zee and Meer where we were served a delicious dinner of fish and mussels prepared in a very original and delicious way. Highly recommended!

During the night it rained again, and Sunday started a bit dull and with little wind. It did pick up a bit and we left Scharendijke making good progress, on a broad reach in a SW breeze. We started to think that we would make Bruinisse on the same tack. Then the wind died.

The rest of the day was a variation of motoring for a bit, sailing for a bit, then becalmed. Repeat.

The wether was also on and off, some nice sunny spells, and some brief, weak showers.

Just before Bruinisse we could sail a good while in an afternoon breeze, unfortunately from the SE.

It was a long return back (five hours!) but still pleasant. How many more such weekends will we have this year, we wonder.

Late August Cruising

Wednesday, 28th of August: Solo sailing to Sint-Annaland
First-Mate still has a few days of annual leave to use before it gets busy at work again. So off we go to a long weekend of sailing.
In terms of weather the late summer is making-up for the lousy start, and with a forecast of Northerlies till Friday and Southerlies on Saturday and Sunday, the conditions are just right for a trip to the unexplored bits of the Oosterschelde. Little we knew of how wrong this forecast was.
To spare First-Mate the boring bit I am bringing the boat to Sint-Annaland on Wednesday. It also gives me an excuse for a little extra sailing, which for me is never boring.

This time wind and tides were just right. Leaving Bruinisse around 12:30, I could down the Keteen on a broad reach and with the tide. The timing was perfect and I turned up into the Krabbenkreek at the turn of the tide. To make it even better, just then the N wind backed a bit, so I could continue on a beam reach. Feeling really lucky, I approached Sint-Annaland under the approving gaze of two seals who were sunbathing on the Northern shore. I barely resisted the temptation to sail into the harbour.
First-Mate joined me in the evening for dinner on board.

Thursday, 29th of August: Lazying in the Krabbenkreek, then beating to Stavenisse
During the night the wind died down, which made for good sleep. In the morning there was only the slightest breeze from the SW. So we went a bit up the Krabbenkreek to wait for the wind at anchor.
At first we managed to sail, but as the ebbing tide picked-up we found ourselves moving over the water but going backwards over the ground. No choice but to motor.
After a couple of hours of lazying in the sun watching the birds and the shore coming towards us, we decided to use the last of the tide to go just a couple of miles down to Stavenisse. By then the SW wind had picked-up enough to allow us to beat down the Keteen dodging the huge ships. As intended, we entered the harbour canal one hour after low water, with just enough water for Mekicevica to get in. It was a bit unnerving to motor along nothing more than a narrow water-stream.

Another dinner on board and a good night sleep in the sheltered and quiet Stavenisse harbour.

Friday, 30th of August: How did this all fit in one day?
The settled weather was due a feeble high pressure, the slightest shift of which can trick the meteorologists and cause the wind to change direction. In the morning the wind forecast had changed. It is now still SW on Friday, but N on Saturday and Sunday. To avoid more beating, we changed the plans and decided to head North for the Volkerak.

Once out on the Keteen we found ourselves in fog. Luckily, the light wind was such that we could keep out of the shipping lane. By the time we passed in front of Bruinisse the fog had cleared.

Approaching Bruinisse as the fog started to clear.

After a long wait at the Kramersluis we continued up the Volkerak. In the first part, there is plenty of water out of the shipping lanes, even an island between the yachts and the big beasts. But after a while, our paths merge. It was nerve racking to sail downwind, trying at the same time to prevent accidental gybes, the genoa from collapsing behind the main sail, and avoid the oncoming ships. After a couple of scary situations, we rolled the genoa. Now we had less speed, but at least it was easier to keep a course.
Soon we could leave the shipping lane and sail towards the separate lock for yachts.
We hoisted the genoa immediately out of the Volkerak lock and slowly sailed towards the beautiful harbour of Willemstad, which is in the former moat of the 16th century star-shaped bastion.
In nine hour of sailing we sailed out of a quiet harbour in fog, then a mixture of cloud and sunshine, two locks, dodging shipping, and finally leisurely sailing towards a beautiful city. This deserved a celebration with dinner out!

Saturday, 31st of August: Beating into gusty winds on the Volkerak
Another trick of the weather: now the wind is not from the N but NW. And rather strong and gusty as well. Leaving Willemstad was much less peaceful than the arrival: motoring into a fresh breeze and choppy waters. We were not helped by a German stink pot than decided to pass as close to us at possible at full speed, making such a wake that we rocked from side to side and even had a wave breaking into the cockpit. Bastard! What for? When we tied up to wait for the lock he was motoring to and fro without tying up, so that he could rush in before everybody else. Is it my impression, or the further North we go into the Great Rivers, the more often we come across this sort of idiots?
Out of the lock we hoisted a reefed sail, unrolled a tiny bit of the jib and made fast progress down the Volkerak. We started thinking we would arrive too early at our next destination, Oude Tonge. Then the wind backed further to the West and became incredibly gusty and variable. It was hard work to beat in these conditions, while trying hard to keep out of the way of the ships.
Needless to say that with all this beating we did not arrive too early. We even had to motor the last bit to negotiate a narrow passage straight into the wind.
We got to the sheltered harbour of Oude Tonge just in time to catch the supermarket open.

Sunday, 1st of September: More beating and locks
After a proper Sunday lay-in we started the last, short day of our cruise: the return to Bruinisse. It was still blowing hard from the WNW and we had to beat, but at least here we can mostly keep out of the shipping lane. Moreover Mekicevica and crew are in great sailing shape and found the beating very enjoyable. We arrived back at our berth in Bruinisse smiling and thoroughly happy with our cruise.