Wednesday 27 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 25. Back To The Rain

On Wednesday morning, Mekicevica was hoisted back onto the trailer, and after the last adjustments of the trailer we started our journey back.
Mekicevica being placed back on the trailer.
While the Skipper sweated preparing the trailer for the journey back, the First-Mate still managed to do a bit of sight-seeing in Trogir. 
All went much better than on the way down. Going via Ljubiljana and München we had better roads than on the route via Passau and Maribor that we had folowed previously. Also I found a way to make Mekicevica more stable on the trailer.
We had a one of our best holidays ever. Fabulous weather, beautiful places, friendly people, Mekicevica performed outstandingly, and the crew gained valuable experience. Plans for the next trip are already brewing on our minds.
Around Münich the rain started. Welcome back to West Europe.

Tuesday 26 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 24. Back to Trogir

Time to return to Trogir.
The whole idea of spending the night in Vinišće was to be able to ride the Maestral on the way to Trogir. To our surprise, during the night the wind turned to the NE, and pretty strong as well, not just the morning thermal breeze. We waited a bit hoping for a change but finally lost patience and just set off with shortened sails. In front of the bay there was a yacht race going on. They went around a buoy in front of Vinišće and headed West.
Approaching Trogirski Zaljev, the wind decreased, as forecast, so we let off the full sails. The entrance to the bay was really busy, with lot of traffic heading out. Just as we were between a tug boat and the rocks of Čelice, a sudden gust of wind backed the genoa and sent Mekicevica spinning around her keel. A few moments of chaos until we got the situation under control, and then motored to Trogir marina.
The sailing is sadly over.
After waiting for the temperature to drop to bearable levels, we start preparing for the return. Mast down, empty the boat, and prepare the trailer.
To cheer us up, we had one last grill.

Monday 25 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 23. Dolphins

Started the morning by a good swim from the beach and then breakfast. We are not in a rush to start, as we know it will take some time for the wind to pick-up. Finally, a NE breeze persuaded us to cast off, only to be becalmed just out of the bay. here we go, the usual dance with motor-on, motor-off, sail a bit, becalmed...
And then the dolphins appeared. First just a group of three about 20m to our port, then a larger group passed us. One of them even did a somersault a bit ahead of us.
Dolphins passing about 20m from Mekicevica.
When we finally got out of the lee of Šolta we found a perfect Maestral that took us to Vinišće, on the main land, in a few tacks. This spacious bay is a modest holiday spot for local people. There are no luxurious hotels or restaurants; everything has a simple honest feel. There was an attempt to build a marina here but  the business went belly up. Part of the pontoons are still there, precariously held by ropes, and are used by the locals. We were happy to use this opportunity of free berthing.
Late afternoon at the disused marina in Vinišće.
We spent the rest of the day at the local beach and had dinner aboard. As we were preparing to have dinner, the French/Belgians we had met in Šćedro arrived and anchored in the bay. 

Sunday 24 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 22. Rogač (Otok Šolta)

After my usual swim in the clear waters and breakfast, we motor out of the bay. The morning NE wind was strong enough to allow us to make good progress towards the Splitska Vrata. And then died suddenly, just as we were crossing the path of one of the tour boats. Yo-yo Ma took us out of the way, but the skipper of the tour boat had noticed our situation and was already taking evasive action. In general I found the skippers of these tour boats very correct and respectful. They always gave way to us in good time. However, before this day is over we are going to come across less correct skippers.
One out of the Vrata we started the usual hide and seek game with the wind. A bit of wind comes up, so we switch-off the motor and unfurl the genoa. This has the magic effect of making the wind disappear. Repeat.
During one of the brief periods when we were actually sailing, we were almost rammed by a motoring charter catamaran crewed by idiots. It appeared to be on auto-pilot with all the crew messing with different things, nobody bothering to keep a look-out. When I avoided them and gave them a protesting blast of the fog horn they looked as if they expect that sailing boats have to give way to them. Morons!
Finally we had enough of the weak wind and decided to motor to the first village we sighted to wait for the Maestral to pick-up. On the way we met another idiot skipper. This time was a gin palace with Bermudan flag coming towards us from the port side. I honestly did not mean to get into a war of nerves. My reasoning was: big yacht, probably with hired, professional skipper. He will respect the col regs. Then we were too close for me to start changing course or speed and create a confusing, dangerous situation. Finally they reluctantly changed course with blasts of the horn and lots of gesticulation. Pardon me, but nowhere in the col regs says that if you have a big yacht, little boats coming from your starboard side have to get out of the way.
Before we could reach the coast the Maestral started, and from there we had a an exhilarating beat towards Rogač. Full main, a few rolls on the genoa, Mekicevica's bow cutting the waves and First-Mate skilfully handling the head-sail at each tack. What happiness to have such great boat and great crew!
Rogač town quay is very reasonably priced and the water-front cafe has bathrooms and showers for visitors. 
Being Sunday the only shop open was a couple of kilometers up a steep, hot, dusty road, in the town of Grohote. It is a beautiful, small town so it was worth the effort.
We spent the rest of the day on the beach, from where we watched a Volkboot with Swiss flag arrive. These small Norwegian boats sail fast but are not great on comfort. Still a couple with two grown-up daughters seemed to be enjoying the cruising.
To close the day we treated ourselves to a dinner of grilled fish on the terrace of a restaurant, about 100m up from the quay. We were the only patrons, while the expensive restaurant on the waterfront was crowded.

Saturday 23 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 21. Good-Bye Hvar

Sadly we have to leave Hvar and start the return to Trogir.
After we nearly ran out of fuel on the way to Šćedro, First-Mate insists that we carry reserve fuel. So we make way to the fuel dock (which is also the car petrol station). Unfortunately they were getting their tanks refilled and we had to wait nearly two hours. We finally started around 11, when the waters in front of Hvar were busy as usual. With too little wind and the wakes of all the boats around, we had to motor. Finally approaching Rt Pelegrin the water was calmer and we could start beating into the light Maestral. Once clear of the tip of Hvar we could turn into a beam-reach and made and made good progress to Uvala Osobova, on the south side of Otok Brač.
The beautiful and neatly kept Uvala Osobova.
Another lovely bay. Along the sides there are several, modest holiday homes, mostly belonging to people  from the inland of Croatia. They obviously take good care of their holiday place: Everything was very well maintained, the chapel looked freshly restored. There were even chemical toilets. The only two other visiting boats in the end of the bay were also crewed by Croatians who must have friends locally, as they disappeared to have a barbecue ashore.
We spent the afternoon and evening reading and swimming, and finished with a dinner of grilled aubergines that aunt Bonina packed for us.

Friday 22 June 2012

Three weeks In Paradise. 20. Palmižana

A strong Maestral in the morning, very unusual. We motor to Palmižana, another beautiful bay in the Pakleni islands. The bay is very deep and a popular anchorage. It has been getting more and more crowded with anchored boats, while on the other side of the island there is a ridiculously expensive ACI marina that was nearly empty.
This time Mekicevica added to the congestion of anchored boats. Still it is a beautiful bay.
Palmižana: beautiful bay, but too many boats.
On the way back we timidly went out of the bay with reefed sails, but soon had to let all sails out, because the strong wind of the morning had turned into a slight breeze. On the outside of the Pakleni Otoci there was still an impressive swell, though.
We had dinner at home. Grilled squid (ligne) caught by Katica's husband. Yummy!

Thursday 21 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 19. Jerolim

Everytime we come to Hvar, we spend at least one day on Jerolim, the most Easterly of the Pakleni Otoci, a short distance in front of Hvar harbour. The beach here has a long tradition as a naturist spot, allegedly since the mid 19th century.
Mekicevica in Jerolim (N side).
We always pay a visit to Mare, a cousin of First-Mate, her playing friend from summer holidays, and my hero: she had the courage to give up a promising career in IT to return to her loved island and open a beach bar.
After spending the day on the beach, we waited for the last taxi-boat to leave before returning to Hvar, where aunt Bonina was waiting for us with a delicious dinner of rice with vegetables.

Wednesday 20 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 18. Night Sailing



In the morning, after a swim and breakfast, we moored alongside on Kod Ive small quay. Nice to have a coffee without having to swim back to the boat. The small problem we have now is that we have no petrol and with such unpredictable winds we risk being stuck half way to Hvar. We asked at the restaurant if they had any petrol they could sell us, and someone went looking in their storage. Finally Karel, the  Czech  guy, came with a canister of petrol and just gave us enough to fill our tank and wouldn't accept any payment or even a cup of coffee. Later when I was doing my usual struggle to get the anchor line back in the locker he came with a chilled Czech beer and gave it to me. Not that I would drink a beer this early and before sailing but it is still a very friendly gesture.
We set off in light winds and surely enough soon we were becalmed on a sea that looked like oil. So we motor to the nearest village on Hvar island, which happened to be Ivan Dolac, a town famous for the local (very expensive) wine. Our inquiry for fuel started an action in the whole town. As a result someone told us that his brother had some fuel in the van and he would gladly give us some. Only problem was, he was out buying supplies on the other side of the island. We hang around watching the wind picking up until we decide to move on, now with even less fuel.
Ivan Dolac, where we tried to get fuel. We would have had more luck asking for the local wine, grown on the fields just visible on the right above the houses, behind the tree.
Although we are making good progress, it is likely that the wind will die down and then we will again be stuck. In So we make another stop at Sveta Nedjelja where a luxurious new marina is being built. By now the Maestral is getting even too strong for little Mekicevica, and it is raising quite some waves. We negotiated the narrow entrance to the marina and were directed to a prime spot, alongside right in front of the bar. Not only they allowed to stay a while for free, but also when we asked about petrol one of the marina staff just gave us three liters that he siphoned out of his old Renault 4. Again, he wouldn't accept any payment, arguing that "people who go to sea must help each other". Incredibly nice!
Heading for the new marina in Sv. Nedjelja.
Encouraged by a huge platter of cheese and ham, we decided to wait for the Maestral to weaken a bit and then continue to Hvar town, knowing that this will involve sailing at night.
Shortly after 1800 we cast off from the tight spot we were in with a perfect maneuver and head out to sea. Now the strength of the wind was just right, although from the wrong direction. We had reefed sails for a while at dusk, but soon we were sailing in full sails with the light of Pokonji Dol light house guiding us.
This was just too good. THE reason why I installed navigation lights on Mekicevica was this dream of mine that one day we would sail to Hvar at night. And here it is, it is happening!
Shortly after the light house we came into the lee of Jerolim and Galešnik, so we doused the sails, switched on the motor and First-Mate, who knows these waters like the palm of her hands, steered us safely into Hvar harbour.
After the quiet places we have been in, the night-life of Hvar was even more striking than usual. This place just heaves all night!
After leaving Mekicevica again in the company of the local boats, we were offered cold beers by the good Katica who owns the cafe Sidro, just under our balcony, with the warning of not even thinking of paying.
How much generosity can you receive in one day?

Tuesday 19 June 2012

Three Weeks in Paradise. 17. Otok Šćedro



After the morning swim, breakfast, and cappuccino at Mirce, we resume our struggle with the weak westerlies. Fearing that we will not be able to get further than Šćedro today, we aim to pass between this small islnad and Hvar, as the N side of Šćedro offers more possibilities to anchor for the night.
Unlike yesterday the Maestral did pick up. And how! Shortly after the 1700 fix, less than 2nm from Šćedro we got such big waves that we opted for motoring straight into them. Stopped briefly on the lee of the island to refill Yo-yo Ma's little tank with the last of the fuel we have and continued to the bay of Lovišce. (Yes sometimes place names here can be so similar it confuses you.) We arrived with our last drops of fuel  to the anchorage where a  Czech  guy in a motorboat tried to assume the role of harbour master and direct us where to anchor. Annoying, but as soon turned out he was a really nice guy. He had been at anchor next to us in Mlini (Pakleni Otoci) and recognized us.
After mooring we swam ashore for a beer at Kod Ive, the small restaurant at the end of the bay.
Kod Ive, the small restaurant at the end of  Uvala Lovišce bay, Otok Šćedro. 
Later another boat almost as small as Mekicevica arrived and anchored near us. It was crewed by two French guys and a Belgian lady, who live in Brussels. Seeing our Belgian flag they came by for a short chat in a mix of French, Dutch, and English.  We will meet them again during this holiday.
We spent a delightful evening aboard, under a starry sky.
The small island of Šćedro is scarcely populated and covered in thick vegetation, which makes it fresher than Hvar.

Monday 18 June 2012

Three Weeks in Paradise. 16. Lovište (Poluotok Pelješac)



Sunny morning and light wind as usual. After breakfast we sail preparing for a laborious beat up Pelješki Kanal. To our surprise, probably due to some weird effect of the mainland cliffs, as on the canal there is a moderate and very steady SE wind. We did the whole of the canal goose-winged and at a very respectable pace. But as we reach Kneža Vela and the water widens the wind vanishes and we get confused seas. We were three boats struggling and one by one we all gave up and motored. Of course the diesel brigade kept their engines on and disappeared in the distance, while we got back to sailing as soon as we got enough wind to push us through the waves. Only here the wind was from the W. Beating, then.
The progress was so slow that by mid afternoon we still had Korčula to our South. Untypically, there was no sign of the Maestral picking up. Realizing we were not going to get anywhere before dark, we head for Lovište, a bay on the tip of Pelješac. We passed the anchored yachts and moored with the bow to a small pier, among the local boats. We half expected to be told to move off but no-one bothered us. We enjoyed the rest of the afternoon as the small beach and adopted the lovely Konoba Mirce for drinks, dinner, and breakfast next morning.
Mekicevica nd the First-Mate enjoying the late afternoon sun at Lovište.

Sunday 17 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 15. Back to Otok Korčula

Time to head back NW. We are still hoping to spend a few days in Hvar.
After the ritual morning swim and breakfast, First-Mate motors out of the small bay while the Skipper struggles with the damned anchor cable. That is something else I need to sort-out soon.
Sails up and we start the beating against a light W wind. It is becoming apparent that we are going to take much longer to return to Hvar than on the way out. The vague plan for today is see how far we can get. By the time we approach Korčula the evening Maestral has kicked up. We continue with shortened sails, as on this side of Korčula the waves don't have enough fetch to bother us much. But that quickly changes as we turn into the Pelješki kanal: there we get the Maestral in full force plus big waves. We decide to call it a day a head again for Lumbarda marina, where we arrive still on time for a late afternoon swim.

Saturday 16 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 14. A Hot Day In Mljet

During the night, a NE wind caused a very uncomfortable swell in the Pomena town quay, so when morning came we had had enough of this expensive place. After breakfast we moved Mekicevica to a bay "around the corner" where she stayed happily at anchor among the local boats.
Mekicevica mingling with the locals in a small bay in Mljet.
The program for today is to walk to a high point on Mljet from where we can have a good view of the lakes. Unfortunately we seem to have picked the wrong day: it was exceptionally hot. Too hot to walk in the sun. We settled for walking up a path as far as we could tolerate the heat and enjoying the view from there.
A view of Veliko Jezero.
We came back to find that Mekicevica had dragged the anchor and was getting too close to the rocks. The umbrella anchor we were using (nicknamed Umberto) does not cut the mustard, especially on sandy bottom. I should have brought Bruce, or get a bigger brother of Umberto.
After another swim in the lakes, we had dinner aboard, including cold beer that the skipper got by swimming ashore and walking back to Pomena.

Friday 15 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 13. Mljet



Today Mekicevica is going to do another island hop towards Mljet, our furthest destination on this trip.
We plan to get to Pomena on the NW of Mljet. The wind has veered to the W and we did the whole passage on a broad reach. The entrance to Pomena is a bit tricky, with several islands and a complicated shaped coast at the entrance of the bay. The increased swell as the depth goes suddenly from 80m to 20m adds to the fun. But we made it with no problems, entering the bay under sail.
Past the entrance of the bay in calmer waters towards Pomena.
The town quay at Pomena was the worst rip-off: you pay a fortune for the privilege of using a mooring rope. No showers, no bathrooms, no water, no electricity. Nada! We solved the problem by sneaking into the bathrooms of the hotel terrace and by using the beach shower.
After mooring we still had time start exploring the natural beauty of the island. Unlike most of the surrounding islands it was never really settled. Little farming, means that the island retained the dense vegetation. Moreover, it has a series of salt-water lakes connected to each other and to the sea only by narrow passages. Visiting boats are not allowed into these lakes.
Mljet: dense vegetation and beautifully coloured lakes.
On the largest lake (Veliko Jezero) there is an island with an XIIth century monastery, where  a ferry boat took us for a visit.
Approaching the monastery of Sveta Marija on Veliko Jezero.
We finished the day with a swim in the green waters of Malo Jezero and dinner out.

Thursday 14 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 12. Korčula

We spent most of the Thursday visiting Korčula, one of the most beautiful Venetian towns in the Adriatic.
Korčula town gate.
Old church. The sea , the sky, and the mountains on the mainland in the background.
Remains of the walls evoke the troubled history of Korčula and the many attacks by the Ottoman armies and ships.
Town gates, from the inner side.
Later we planned to do only a short hop around the E tip of Korčula to spend the night in Pržina bay, ready to depart towards Mljet in the morning. At first we sailed leisurely with main sail only among the many small islands dotted along the E  tip of Korčula. Badija, with the old monastery, looks particularly inviting.
The old monastery on the island of Badija with the rocks of the Pelješac  peninsula towering behind.
Once out of the shelter of the islands we got the SW wind in full force. Passing Rt Ražnijc proved to be a mission. Finally we gave up and headed for the shelter of the Lumbarda marina. Even that was an adventure. I had never thought I would see Mekicevica with reefed main sail, genoa rolled to handkerchief size and with the toerail in the water!
Eventually we made it to Lumbarda marina, still in time to go for a swim.

Wednesday 13 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 11. Hvar to Korčula



Today, Mekicevica is going to make her most ambitious passage so far: we are sailing from Hvar to Korčula, about 35M SE. It went really well. There was a weak but steady Maestral blowing that allowed us to sail the long stretch between the two islands on a broad reach and that run goose-winged along the Korčulanski kanal.
Hvar to Korčula, position fixes show Mekicevica's slow but steady progress.
After ten hours of delightful sailing we arrived to the beautiful town of Korčula in a mellow evening light. A performance like this really called for a celebration with a delicious grill.
Arriving in Korčula in the mellow evening light.





















Tuesday 12 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 10. Mlini (Pakleni Otoci)

The jugo came back in strength. So we are just going to motor across the Paklenici Kanal and spend the day at Mlini bay in the Pakleni islands. This is one of our favourite bays and well protected from the jugo.
On arrival we made the embarrassing mistake of trying to pick someone's anchor buoy thinking it was a conveniently placed mooring buoy. Well, we were not the only ones; we watched the same scene several times during the day.
Chilling-out at Mlini. In the foreground: Mekicevica's new "tender". Notice the motor boat next to us, it will feature again on this blog.
After a relaxing day, we motored back in stronger wind and higher waves than in the morning. Hvar harbour was even messier than usual, and the place we had been using was taken. So we had to look for a new place. Just as we found a narrow gap between two local boats we ran out of fuel, so had to pull ourselves by hand along the moored boats and finally be helped by a lady of one of the souvenir shops. What a nightmare!

Monday 11 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 9. Mekićevica Goes to Mekićevica

Hvar is one of the driest and sunniest places in Europe, so weather like yesterday never lasts very long. Surely enough, Monday started with brilliant sunshine and light wind.
Today an important part of The Dream is coming true: Mekićevica is going to Mekićevica, the small bay a couple of miles from Hvar town after which she is named. We motor out between the usual mess of local boats, yachts, fishing boats and hoist the sails in the slightest breeze and slowly move eastwards along the coast. We were moving so slow that we had time to have a chat with a local fisherman who was tending to his nets in front of the Pokonji Dol light house. He looked puzzled at the Belgian flag and at the name of the boat and asked in Croatian: "Are you Belgians?" He  used to sail a Leisure 17, so he appreciates small sailing boats and was very well impressed with Mekićevica. In total contrast to questions about the name we get in the Netherlands, he commented: "So, she is going home!" I could have kissed him.
Relaxed sailing past the Pokonji Dol light house.
The arrival to Mekićevica was a happy moment for boat and crew. We even picked a mooring buoy under sail, just as I had dreamed so may times. We spent the day swimming, soaking up some sunshine or reading in the shade.
The Dream comes true:  Mekićevica in Mekićevica 
The return to Hvar in the late afternoon was really pleasant. Broad reached in the evening breeze, we were faster than the taxi boat. The Hvar harbour was already quiet and we are getting used to the Mediterranean mooring, so all went smoothly.
That is one happy chap!
To celebrate such a perfect day, we had a dinner of grilled fish at Alviž, the less touristical and less ridiculously priced restaurant in Hvar.

Sunday 10 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 8. Hvar at Last



Another morning waking up and marveling at the beauty around us. After the ritual dive into the clear waters in birthday suit, a light breakfast and off towards Hvar. The wind has weakened and veered West. We start with reefed sails as the weather forecast still warns of strong gusts, but soon we need full sails to move at all. Plus the occasional help of the outboard motor to cross calm patches in the Splitska Vrata. Once in the open we make good progress.
The Jadrolinja ferry on the Splitska Vrata.
Unfortunately it is overcast with occasional light rain. After Rt Pelegrin, the W tip of Hvar and into the Paklenici Kanal, the wind vanishes completely and we have to motor the rest of the way.
Part of the dream was sailing into Hvar harbour in glorious weather. Instead we are motoring under a dull sky. Never mind, we made it. We can already see the balcony of the family house where years ago we started to dream how wonderful it would be to come here with our own little sailing boat.
How we dreamed of this moment: Mekicevica entering Hvar harbour.
The harbour is a complete mess. Busy with yachts, small local boats, rental motor boats, and taxi-boats. To add to this, the ferry has created a terrible swell that is breaking on the stone quays. The Skipper nearly panicked and wanted to turn away. Finally with some encouragement from the First Mate, we tied a long stern line to a mooring buoy which allowed us to push Mekicevica's nose between the local boats more or less under control. By the time we finished the messy maneuver, the water was calm again and the whole harbour was an image of tranquility. Tonight we are having a home cooked meal and are sleeping in a bed!

Saturday 9 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 7. Sitting Out the Jugo

The Jugo is still getting stronger, so we decide to wait another day before continuing our journey South. We move to a small bay around the corner from the marina, so to speak, and use a free mooring buoy. The owner tried to send us off saying that his boat would be back soon. We stayed all day, swimming and relaxing and the boat never came back.
Another beautiful bay close to Milna (Otok Brač).
Anyway, we also prefer more privacy during the night, so in the evening we moved to another spot away from the houses. We were well sheltered from the wind but the wake from the shipping on the Splitska Vrata seemed to find its way into the bay and Mekicevica rocked all night.

Friday 8 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 6. Milna (Otok Brač)



We are now definitely having a jugo, as the S wind is known here. Typically it started as a gentle breeze and gradually gained in strength. Nothing to worry about, apart from the fact that we planned to move SE towards Hvar. This time of the year the yugo does not normally last more than two or three days, so we are just going to make another short hop hoping it will ease soon. Our aim is Milna, on the SW of Brač.
With the excuse of untying the shore line, I started the day with a dive into the crystal clear water in my birthday suit. Ahh, what bliss! 
After breakfast, we start off in the light (too light) wind. Passing Supetar, at the E tip of Šolta, seems to take forever, but finally we get the yugo blowing from the Splitska Vrata, the channel between Šolta and Brač. For a while the sailing really gets fun. Close hauled, making good speed, we get in collision course with a container ship. Will they respect the col-regs and give way to tiny Mekicevica going under sail?
Apparently they had no intention of doing so  (OK, the channel is relatively narrow, they have an arguable case of being restricted) so we give way. And suddenly the wind stops! I had never seen such a sudden change. There I was planning to shorten sail and in just a few seconds we were just bobbing in the swell with no wind at all!
 It seems that the two islands close by create really weird wind patterns. At some stage, closer to Brač we were close reached and heeling a lot, watching a boat just some 200m away going the same way and running goose-winged!
Approaching Milna.
For the last part of this passage we had to beat into Milna, with full main and reefed genoa.
After leaving Mekicevica at another overpriced ACI marina we went for a swim and to visit the town.
Milna is really a nice town with beautiful houses. It just seems to lack a bit of TLC. Why some towns get all the tourism (Hvar, Korcula, Dubrovnik) and places almost as interesting like Milna are left to decay is a mystery.

Thursday 7 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 5. Uvala Nečujam (Otok Šolta)



We were so put off by the marina in Maslinica that we decided to spend the next night at anchor. The wind started blowing from the SW (yugo), so we made a short hop to Uvala Nečujam on the N side of Šolta.
making the most of our shallow draught, we came close to the shore, dropped a bow anchor and took a line to the shore (swimming). What a lovely spot to swim, relax, and enjoy the nice weather.
Relaxing in Uvala  Nečujam.

Wednesday 6 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 4. Maslinica (Otok Šolta)



After breakfast and the final preparations we are finally off. Cast off, motor a bit out of the channel separating Trogir from Čiovo and sails up. We can hardly believe it. This is the moment we have been dreaming of for yers: Mekicevica is sailing in the Adriatic.


Leaving Trogir in light airs.


The beauty of the coast always beckoning. 


Our plan for the first Adriatic passage is very modest: we are aiming for the small town of Maslinica, on the W tip of the island Šolta, just 6 nm S of Trogir.
In retrospect, the day was a representative sample of sailing on these waters: start with a gentle NE land wind that dies to nothing around noon. Struggle with calm and the wakes of motor boats, until around 1400 a W or NW picks up rapidly. Very rapidly. Typically less than one hour after being becalmed we are reefing the sails. All of this while avoiding thousands of small islands and chartered boats skippered by clueless lubbers.
But the beauty of this place makes it all worthwhile. The sky and the sea compete to show you the most beautiful tones of blue. The many islands tempt you to stop for a swim. Here and there beautiful small villages offer the opportunity to stop for delicious food and wine in the company of very friendly people.
Paradise cannot possibly be any better than this!
Maslinica (which means little olive) was once a holiday place for the wealthy gentry of Split and Trogir. Close to the quay there were small shops and cafes; with traditional villas of withe stone and with spacious terraces, taking the upper levels.
The beautiful village of Maslinica...
Unfortunately, the greed to make a quick buck out of tourism has destroyed one half of the bay with a ostentatious, expensive, and poorly designed marina, popular with gin palaces.The price of the mooring was made a little more tolerable by the apologetic attitude of the old man who runs the place. He obviously finds it appalling that his boss charges such prices to small boats, and offered to let us have water (that we don't use) and electricity (of which we use very little) for free.
...and the horror the yachting tourism has made of the other half of the bay
For an evening drink and morning coffee, we ignored the expensive bars and mingled with the locals at the bar of the local nautical and fishing club.

Tuesday 5 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 3. The Med Way

The weather probably meant it as a welcome gesture. trying to make us feel like in Belgium: it rained all night, occasionally with thunder.
In the morning Mekicevica was put on the water and we spent the rest of the day getting her ready to sail. Mid-morning the sun came out and did it get hot!
Mekicevica in the capable hands of Nikša, the crane operator in Trogir marina.
Over here they are even less used used to small sailing boats than in Zeeland, so Mekicevica attracted a lot of attention. One guy even tried to buy her. Five thousand euros was his starting offer. Then he proposed a sharing scheme. After I flatly rejected any offer he commented to First-Mate (in Croatian): "It seems he would sooner let go of his wife than of his boat." Cheeky b******!
Late afternoon we had to vacate the space under the crane and get our first taste of the feared Mediterranean mooring. I think it did not go too badly, considering there was a horrible swell in the marina, and we were getting instructions in Croatian that First-Mate than had to translate for me.

Monday 4 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 2. Arrival in Trogir

Finally, we made it safely to Trogir on Monday early afternoon. The last part of the journey was a steep descent from the coastal mountains to the sea. Then just skirting the medieval centre of Trogir and across a bridge to the island of Čiovo where the marina is located.
Just as we were about to enter the narrow street leading to our destination, it was end of shift at the shipyard next to the marina. In a matter of seconds, a quiet street turns into mayhem as thousands of workers try to leave work at once.
Eventually the stream of cars stopped and we were able to drive into the marina and place Mekicevica under the crane to be put on the water next day.
Finally in Trogir marina, under the crane and ready for lift-off.
We still have to get (and pay for) the permit to sail. In stark contrast to all the descriptions of the very strict Croatian authorities, we came across a very friendly harbour-master and the whole process went really smoothly.
Finally in holiday mood.
Only we were left with little time to explore the beautiful city of Trogir, a pearl among the Venetian coastal towns. Never mind, we will have to come the same way in three weeks.


Saturday 2 June 2012

Three Weeks In Paradise. 1. No Fun on the Autobahn

After years of dreaming, planning and preparing, it is about to happen: we are taking our little sailing boat called Mekicevica to the Adriatic. An expanse of 1700km of land separates the waters of Zeeland from the blue and warm Adriatic. Three days on the road with Mekicevica in tow on a hired trailer (nicknamed Trebuchet, because it resembles a medieval siege machine). Every pothole on the road makes me fear for some serious damage. A long and stressful journey. No fun, fun on the autobahn...
A pit stop along the German Autobahn.