Three Weeks In Paradise. 18. Night Sailing

In the morning, after a swim and breakfast, we moored alongside on Kod Ive small quay. Nice to have a coffee without having to swim back to the boat. The small problem we have now is that we have no petrol and with such unpredictable winds we risk being stuck half way to Hvar. We asked at the restaurant if they had any petrol they could sell us, and someone went looking in their storage. Finally Karel, the  Czech  guy, came with a canister of petrol and just gave us enough to fill our tank and wouldn't accept any payment or even a cup of coffee. Later when I was doing my usual struggle to get the anchor line back in the locker he came with a chilled Czech beer and gave it to me. Not that I would drink a beer this early and before sailing but it is still a very friendly gesture.
We set off in light winds and surely enough soon we were becalmed on a sea that looked like oil. So we motor to the nearest village on Hvar island, which happened to be Ivan Dolac, a town famous for the local (very expensive) wine. Our inquiry for fuel started an action in the whole town. As a result someone told us that his brother had some fuel in the van and he would gladly give us some. Only problem was, he was out buying supplies on the other side of the island. We hang around watching the wind picking up until we decide to move on, now with even less fuel.

Ivan Dolac, where we tried to get fuel. We would have had more luck asking for the local wine, grown on the fields just visible on the right above the houses, behind the tree.

Although we are making good progress, it is likely that the wind will die down and then we will again be stuck. In So we make another stop at Sveta Nedjelja where a luxurious new marina is being built. By now the Maestral is getting even too strong for little Mekicevica, and it is raising quite some waves. We negotiated the narrow entrance to the marina and were directed to a prime spot, alongside right in front of the bar. Not only they allowed to stay a while for free, but also when we asked about petrol one of the marina staff just gave us three liters that he siphoned out of his old Renault 4. Again, he wouldn't accept any payment, arguing that "people who go to sea must help each other". Incredibly nice!

Heading for the new marina in Sv. Nedjelja.

Encouraged by a huge platter of cheese and ham, we decided to wait for the Maestral to weaken a bit and then continue to Hvar town, knowing that this will involve sailing at night.
Shortly after 1800 we cast off from the tight spot we were in with a perfect maneuver and head out to sea. Now the strength of the wind was just right, although from the wrong direction. We had reefed sails for a while at dusk, but soon we were sailing in full sails with the light of Pokonji Dol light house guiding us.
This was just too good. THE reason why I installed navigation lights on Mekicevica was this dream of mine that one day we would sail to Hvar at night. And here it is, it is happening!
Shortly after the light house we came into the lee of Jerolim and Galešnik, so we doused the sails, switched on the motor and First-Mate, who knows these waters like the palm of her hands, steered us safely into Hvar harbour.
After the quiet places we have been in, the night-life of Hvar was even more striking than usual. This place just heaves all night!
After leaving Mekicevica again in the company of the local boats, we were offered cold beers by the good Katica who owns the cafe Sidro, just under our balcony, with the warning of not even thinking of paying.
How much generosity can you receive in one day?